Pyramid Power Helps My Rabbits Grow

Article Tools

Image Gallery

Print

E-mail

Comments

RSS

[3] Likewise, the finished structure must be located far away from surrounding water pipes, steel girders, and electrical wiring, for these things will defi. nitely interfere with the entrance of cosmic energy into the pyramid.

[4] Also, the pyramid must be oriented properly with respect to the earth's mag. netic field. Buy a cheap compass and use it—when the time comes-to align the finished hutch as shown in Fig. 1.

[5] Finally, it's important-when designing the pyramid- to keep in mind the Critical Energy Ratio. That is, the volume of matter (plants, rabbits, razor blades, or what have you) enclosed in the pyramid must not exceed 5% of the structure's total volume. (The volume of a pyramid is equal to its base squared times its height divided by three.) According to the literature, this 5% figure is critically important in experiments with inanimate objects. It may not be quite as crucial in tests involving animals, though.

With these guidelines in mind, you're ready to proceed to the actual fabrication of the pyramid.

CONSTRUCTING A PYRAMID HUTCH

You don't need any great amount of skill to build a pyramid hutch exactly like the one I used in my experiment. With a little patience, even an unskilled carpenter can handle the job. (I know, because I'm as unskilled as they come!)

The construction of the hutch can be broken down into four stages: [1] cutting the frame members, [2] erecting the support stand, [3] joining the frame to the stand, and 14] attaching the walls and door.

THE FRAME

For my pyramid's frame, I used four 48"-long two-by-fours ... and (for the purposes of illustration) I'll assume you're going to do the same. With the aid of a protractor or other anglemeasuring device, cut the four framing members off at a 480 angle on one end and a 420 angle at the other end. (See Fig. 2.) Don't worry if your angles aren't perfect ... utter precision isn't necessary.

Next, cut a 2 X 2 piece of wood to the length A-C in Fig. 2. This block of wood will be used to reinforce the pyramid's frame at the apex. (A good carpenter would—of course—join the two-byfours at the apex by cutting the upper end of each board at the proper angle. This is difficult to do, however, without specialized tools. Besides, my way is easier and works just as well.)

THE STAND

The next step is to estimate the dimensions of your pyramid's base. To do this, take the length A-B (see Fig. 2) and divide it by 0.951, (For example, if the distance A-B is 48", the finished pyramid's base will be 48 divided by 0.951, or 50.5".)

For the stand's legs, you'll need four 36'-long two-by-fours and four 12"-long two-by-fours. Nail each short piece to a long piece, so that each new "leg" is-in effect—a four-by-four at one end and a two-by-four at the other. (See Fig. 3.)

Now cut two 50.5"-long (assuming the base of your pyramid is to be 50.5") and two 52.5"-long boards from 10 X 4" lumber. Then nail each 50.5" board to two of the stand's legs (leaving a 2" overhang above the 4" X 4" upper portion of each leg, as shown in Fig. 3), and connect the two stand halves together with the 52.5"-long planks. (Again, leave a 2" overhang at the top of the stand.)

RSS | Comments | E-mail | Print