HOW TO BE A SEA SCROUNGE

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Orach, or seaside lamb's-quarters, looks almost exactly like its relative, the common lamb's-quarters or pigweed, and is just as good in salads or lightly boiled and buttered. Find orach among the rounded stones above the water line, sprawled on the ground or growing upright as high as 5 or 6 feet. Its dark green, scaly-looking leaves are shaped like arrowheads and will more than take the place of spinach or chard as a vegetable.

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The glasswort, which starts off as a patch of small translucent green shoots and grows into a jointed, apparently leafless cactus-like plant a few inches high, is found on clay shores and in salt marshes that are barely covered by high tides. Another spinach substitute, the glasswort (or samphire, as it's called by some) is a fine salad green.

Should you come across a collection of fleshy, gray-green leaves sending up 4-8" spikes of dull greenish flowers, you've found the goosetongue, a beachcombing version of the common garden plantain. Goosetongue, which grows along clay shores over most of the coastline of the U. S. and Canada and even on the inhospitable-looking rocks of sea bluffs, can be used in salads or prepared like green beans and served hot with lots of butter.

And if you hanker after a little dessert, gather some beach plums, a strange relative of the domestic plum and cherry found on 3-10' high shrubs in the dune sands of the East and Midwest. The bush is covered with magnificent white blossoms in the spring and later bears an abundant crop of red, purple or yellow-orange fruit ranging in size from one-half to an inch in diameter. The beach plum can be eaten as picked, made into tart jams and jellies or used in pies.

There are many other edible plants to be found at the seashore . . . too many to cover here. But there's one plant the sea scrounge should take care to avoid, because it's definitely NOT edible: the poison hemlock.

If you're tempted to take home a sprig or two of that wild parsley you found up the hill from the beach, or those wild carrots (Queen Anne's lace) growing in the field by the Old Shore Road, be mighty careful. Hemlock is very difficult to distinguish from either of these plants and a mistake can be your final undoing. The seeds of the hemlock are deadly too, and are often confused with caraway, anise and fennel. It's not really that big a problem (after all, how many poison hemlock deaths did you hear about last year?) but forewarned is forearmed.

The sea has fed and fascinated people since the beginning of time and still holds a magical allure for the sailor and the sportsman. It can hold more than allure for the careful sea scrounge: the ocean and its shores can be the cheap and plentiful source of all the delicious food he cares to gather.

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