HOW TO BE A SEA SCROUNGE

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Look for rockweed clinging to the higher rocks along rough coastlines. It's great thrown into the pot to steam with any kind of seafood and contributes a delicate, sweetish flavor to the finished dish.

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Tide pools, especially in rocky areas, will provide you with the other five varieties. The undulating bright green leaves of sea lettuce make a colorful addition to your salads if chopped into very small bits while still fresh, and give you a salty seasoning when dried and powdered.

Dulse is a dark red plant with fan or tongue-shaped leaves and is found attached to rocks, shells and other seaweeds near the low-water mark. Fresh, the leaves are tough and rubbery . . . but when dried they become tender, and—unlike most dried plants—will remain soft when stored. Use the cured dulse in salads, add it to chowders and meat loaves or chew it plain—as the Irish have done for centuriesto take advantage of its exotic tang.

Perhaps the best of the seaweeds for cooking is laver. This tongued or lobed frond with a smooth red, purple or purplish-brown sheen also grows on rocks, boulders and pilings near the low-water line. Use it in soups, brown it in oil seasoned with garlic and ginger root or stuff it as you would cabbage or grape leaves.

Irish moss is the most common of these sea vegetables and completely carpets the rocky mouths of many tidal pools. The plant is a very dark olive green, purple or black, 3-6" high and grows in close, many-branched profusion. Raw, it's tough . . . dried, it's tougher . . . but boiled, it's perfectly tender and a wonderful side dish to any seafood dinner. Usually, though, Irish moss is boiled for 30 minutes and then cooled to give body to soups and to make a nourishing gelatin.

The sixth food-quality seaweed is edible kelp, a 1-10' long, 3-6" wide olive green or olive brown frond. It can be distinguished from other kelps by its pronounced mid-rib and the small, ribless leaves that grow out from its base. It's these parts that are eaten . . . add the chopped rib to salads and use the fresh or dried leaves as a vegetable or in soups, stews and noodle dishes.

SEASIDE PLANTS: While you're down at the beach scrounging, keep an eye out for rose hips, the sweet and vitamin C-packed fruit of the wild rose. Easily identified as a rose, the shrubby bush has thorns, saw-tooth-edged oval leaves and five-petaled mauve or pink flowers. Rose hips can be eaten just as you pick them, sprinkled with a little sugar or made into tea, jam or jelly.

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