HOW TO BE A SEA SCROUNGE

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The so-called soft-shelled crabs are really just blues that have moulted out of their shells. Until their new coverings harden the crabs are sluggish and helpless and can be picked up without fear. Look for them on the bottom under large rocks where they sometimes hide.

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Once the craw (a sac located just behind the eyestalks) and devil's fingers or lungs (spongy strips found under the tips of the upper shell) are removed, the entire soft-shelled crab can be sauteed in butter, broiled or dipped in egg and bread crumbs and fried. Fried soft-shell makes a great sandwich on a hard roll spread with mayonnaise, sprinkled with a little cayenne pepper and garnished with lettuce or nasturtium leaves.

Hard shell or soft, though, remember to always check local limits and regulations before harvesting crabs and never cook or eat a dead crustacean.

POLE FISHING

There's nothing like a simple 10-15 foot bamboo pole for fishing off docks or in coves, inlets and estuaries . . . no need to lay out lots of bread for swanky rods, reels and lures. Tie a hook to your cane pole with 15 feet or so of line, bait it with a fish head, a worm or some meat and dangle that hook in the water. It'll do just as well as the fancy rigs and can be put together, complete with snap-on bobber, for less than $5.00.

A myriad of fishes—including mullet, bluefish, sea bass, flounder and fluke in the ocean . . . and perch, black bass, crappie and catfish in the brackish backwaters—can be caught in sea scrounge territory. While the sport fisherman might get bigger thrills and tell bigger tales, the sea scrounger gets better meals for less money in a shorter time.

Some of the best pole fishing can be done from wharves, expecially around the canneries of New England . . . on good days you'll take smelt and pollack as fast as you can get your hook in and out of the water. Bait with whelk foot or some other tough meat—so you can catch several fish on the same piece of bait—and set your snap-on bobber to hold the hook at a depth of 4 to 8 feet.

Two more fish that can be found around wharves, as well as among the rocks along the coast, are the cunner and the tautog. The cunner is aggressive and hits the hook hard . . . while the larger tautog is a cautious sneak who darts out from his hiding place to take a quick nibble at your bait before scooting back to cover. Fish for both close to the bottom using a small hook baited with just about anything.

These four fish are all very tasty and easy to prepare. Cut the heads and tails off your smelt, squeeze them from the tail forward to eviscerate them, and fry in butter. Smelt are also good if you roll them in egg and bread-crumbs before tossing them in the pan. The other three are best filleted: split them down the back on either side of the dorsal fins and along each side approximately in the middle, then remove the boneless sections of meat from the upper halves of the bodies. They can be baked, boiled, fried or corned.

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