HOW TO BE A SEA SCROUNGE

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Once your crab turns, scoop him into the net or just wave a stick in front of him. The spunky crustacean will most probably clamp a claw on the proffered piece of wood and tenaciously hang on until you can pick him up and dump him into a box or bag. If you have to handle the ornery little dickens, grab him only from the rear. A snap from those pinchers can inflict a jagged and dirty wound that will be quite painful.

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The other two crabbing methods aren't nearly as exciting but are surer bets, especially for the inexperienced forager. When a weighted line is baited with a fish head and dropped to the bottom of likely crab waters, the crustaceans will latch onto the offering just as firmly as they'll pinch the piece of wood I mentioned earlier. When they do, haul them up and net them. Increase your haul by working as many as a dozen of these drop lines at once. Crab traps work much the same way except that they close up around the unsuspecting blues when they gather to feast on the bait fastened in the centers of the snares.

Many other crabs make good eating, too. As a matter of fact, all true crabs are edible . . . but some are so small that the effort is hardly worthwhile. Most coastal areas of this country, however, have at least one notably famous local crab.

In New England look for the oval-shaped yellow-brown rock crab on sandy bottoms in shallow water just below the low-tide line. You'll also find rock crabs hiding along the zone between the tides. The Jonah crab, with its brick red back, yellowish belly and rough carapace favors the open sandy shores of northeastern waters, too. State laws in the region forbid non-residents from using crab pots on the crustaceans but both crabs can be netted or caught on baited lines quite easily.

The best eating on the West Coast is provided by the large dungeness crab, a reddish-brown member of the Cancer family that can be taken in traps from the bottoms of tidal flats and bays, and the South has its stone and lady crabs.

Hard-shelled crabs should be boiled or steamed in sea water or in fresh water to which some salt and vinegar has been added. Dump the crustaceans into the boiling liquid and cook them for ten minutes after the water has come back to a boil. Just as with lobsters, this is the quickest, most humane way to kill the hard-shells.

Cool, but do not soak, the crabs in cold running water after they've finished boiling. Break off the claws and legs and lay them aside. Remove the craw, the devil's fingers and the abdomen or "key", which is the fleshy part tucked under the top shell. Break each body into two pieces along the seam made by the recess from which you removed the abdomen, crack the legs and claws with a pair of pliers . . . and you're all set to pick out the meat to use as is or sauteed, deviled, gumboed or added to salads.

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