HOW TO BE A SEA SCROUNGE

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Mussel hunters on the West Coast must contend with a special problem. Pacific mussels are contaminated during the warmer months by a poisonous micro-organism which the shellfish strain from the water while feeding. These plankton-like little plants are luminescent and—at the height of their season—lend a sparkling, fiery glow to wave crests and boat wakes. The danger of contamination from these creatures is so great that California forbids the gathering of mussels from May to October. During the remainder of the year, though, these West Coast shellfish are just as nourishing and delectable as their eastern brethren.

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Mussels are found on wharf pilings at the low-water line or on rocks just reached by the shallow waters of low tide. Live, useable mussels will be attached to their roosting spots by a web of strong, silken black threads called the byssus. Never take an unattached mussel. Pluck the good ones and remove their "beards" by pulling the threads toward the large end of the shells with your thumb and forefinger.

These tough little mollusks are almost impossible to open raw, but that's no loss because uncooked mussels are pretty unappetizing. Scrub the shells with steel wool or a wire brush and steam them for 20 minutes until they open. Serve with melted-butter sauce.

Before we move on to crabbing, I would like to again emphasize that all shellfish should be scrubbed well and inspected closely before being cooked or eaten. Immediately discard any mollusk that doesn't close tightly when handled or that has a cracked or broken shell. Never cook or eat a dead clam or mussel.

CRABBING

Crab catching can be exciting, challenging and a lot of fun. The best-known East Coast variety is the blue crab (known in the South as the sea crab). This crustacean is large (about 6" across), its back is dark green, stomach white, trim red and legs blue. It frequents muddy shores, estuaries and the bottoms of bays although the best hunting is often the channels that cut through salt marshes.

Crabs can be difficult to see in the shallows. Their natural coloring is such an effective camouflage that they are easily mistaken for just another ripple in the dull green water. The trick is to keep a picture of the crab in your mind and search the waters until the image in your head merges with the real live crab on the bottom.

There are three ways to go after the blue: with a net, baited line or trap. The first is a real sporting proposition.

The crab is a sensitive, alert creature and sneaking up on one with net in hand requires some doing. Wear sneakers to protect your feet and proceed with the utmost silence and caution. When you locate one of the crustaceans, approach him from the rear (if you can) and scoop him up with a long, quick sweep. Your scoop has to be faster than his swim and, chances are, you'll miss. That's when the fun begins . . . because if you pursue the defiant little devil, he'll soon turn and offer to fight you with his dexterous—and dangerous—pincers.

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