HOW TO BE A SEA SCROUNGE

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(2) OBEY LOCAL REGULATIONS. Laws that regulate the harvest of seafoods were not made to thwart your good life but to protect it. Restrictions, such as those governing the size and quantity of clams and crabs that may be gathered, allow the species a chance to replenish themselves.

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(3) RESPECT PRIVATE PROPERTY. There's no need to get into a trespassing hassle. Town docks and beaches are usually open to the public, although nearby parking areas are sometimes restricted to residents. If that's the case, park your car somewhere else, walk in and ask an old-timer where to fish, clam or crab. Old railroad beds, bridges, wharves and public land are almost always OK.

(4) TAKE ONLY WHAT YOU CAN USE. It's a sad kind of murder to gather too much seafood . . . and then let it just die in a pail. All excess live critters should be put back to survive and propagate.

CLAMS AND MUSSELS

Clams are dug and mussels are plucked at low tide . . . and the soft-shell or steamer clam (also called the nannynose or long clam in some parts) is especially easy to harvest. The clam—found from North Carolina to Labrador on the East Coast and from California to Alaska on the West—digs itself only a few inches into sandy or muckish mud between the high and low-tide lines. It feeds itself by making a small access hole (through which it extends its "neck" to siphon water) to the mud's surface. This siphon hole is the clam's undoing because, if you stamp your feet while walking across a good steamer clam tidal flat, you'll be able to locate every one of the tasty shellfish by the little squirt of water each sends up as it retracts its neck.

Steamer clams tend to group and, when you've found one, you've most likely found a lot of them. Check local regulations to learn how many you may harvest, then grab a basket and head for the flats. Almost any good digging tool can be used for gathering steamers but there's a special clamhook with long, thin prongs that makes the job easier and is less damaging to the soft shells of this variety. Foraging a meal-sized mess of nannynoses is generally a quick and easy task.

You can clean the grit and mud from clams by hanging them off the end of a dock in a wire basket (which will attract a lot of fish and provide you with some truly superior angling). You can also soak steamers (but noother saltwater clam) and fresh water shellfish in a tub of fresh water to which you've added a handful of cornmeal. Change the water and add new meal twice a day and let the long clams clean themselves for 48 hours. Scrub the clams before you cook them.

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