Buyer's Guide to Solar Heating
(Page 4 of 5)
December 2006/January 2007
By Dan Chiras
Before you buy a solar collector, make your home as energy-efficient as possible, because efficiency enables the system to meet a higher percentage of your heat requirements. Beef up insulation in ceilings and add insulation to walls, if they’re uninsulated. Cover windows at night with insulating shades, and seal cracks in the building envelope with caulk and weatherstripping. Install foam gaskets in electrical outlets and light switches. Seal ducts in forced air systems.
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Be sure to investigate local building codes and zoning ordinances before purchasing a solar hot-air system. You may need a building permit. Check out neighborhood or subdivision covenants as well. They may prohibit solar systems, although many homeowners have successfully challenged their neighborhood associations.
You can buy solar hot-air collectors online or through a growing list of solar suppliers, companies that also often install other solar systems such as hot water or electric systems. When shopping, watch out for too-good-to-be-true claims.
Installation
Installing solar hot-air panels is not a job for a beginner. Solar energy expert Marken says a seasoned crew of two can install a solar hot-air system in a few hours, but it’s more realistic to set aside a full day. “If this is your first time, plan on a weekend, even with help,” he says. Because collectors are fairly heavy and measure around 4 by 7 feet, you’ll need a brawny assistant or two.
The panel should face as close to due south as possible. The most common place to mount a solar hot-air collector is a roof, where shade is least likely. Unfortunately, roof mounts are usually more complicated and more costly than wall mounts. In homes with attics, installation requires flexible insulated ducts to transport air to and from the collector. Outdoor runs of duct are protected from the elements by galvanized pipe. Much shorter duct runs suffice in homes with closed ceiling cavities and for wall mounts. Like roof mounts, ground-mounted systems require considerable ductwork, and both require much heftier fans to ensure adequate air flow.
To install a glazed collector, you’ll need to cut two 5- to 7-inch holes in the wall or roof and ceiling. Transpired air collectors require only one hole, albeit a rather large one (up to 9 inches in diameter). When cutting holes in a wall or roof, be certain not to damage water pipes or electrical wires.
You’ll also need to hook up the thermostat, temperature sensor and fan. Wiring diagrams can be difficult to understand for those who don't have experience with them. To make life easier, two manufacturers have provided rather ingenious alternatives to wiring. Your Solar Home sells my favorite solar hot-air collector, the SolarSheat 1500 series, which comes with its own supply of electricity: a small solar electric module that powers the unit’s fan. To install, simply mount the panel on the wall or roof and then attach two wires from the panel to the thermostat inside the house. It’s affordable, a snap to wire and very attractive.
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