Save Energy & Money NOW!
(Page 2 of 8)
October/November 2001
By Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk
Look for leaks first. Pay careful attention to where the duct connects to the register (or boot). A loose-fitting connection means air is leaking into the wall or floor. Inspect the duct runs and seal any cracks or gaps, but don't use duct tape. Duct tape may be the cure-all for everything - except actual ducts. The adhesive dries out quickly and it will cease to hold. Mastic, a thick paste adhesive, can be messy to work with, but it's a more effective alternative.
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Insulate the ducts next — at least the visible ones in the attic or basement. There are a number of blanket-type and rigid insulation products designed for use around ducts. Insulating will make these areas cooler. If you use the basement for living space,, install new supply and return registers rather than relying on pirated heat from uninsulated ductwork.
Increase insulation. Do you know what's in your attic? More than 30 percent of homes in the United States are not insulated, according to Rick Heede, a consultant with the Rocky Mountain Institute, a nonprofit organization that fosters efficient resource use. Millions more are underinsulated.
According to EERC, some local building codes require lower R-values than the Department of Energy's recommendations. R-values measure resistance to the flow of heat through a given thickness of a material: the higher the R-value, the better the insulator. If you find your home's insulation levels are less than the recommended levels for your area, you need to make this your first improvement project.
Uninsulated recessed ceiling lights are as bad as holes in your ceilings. These lights keep their bulbs cool by letting air flow through holes in the top of the fixture. To correct this, you can add insulation, but remember to allow 3 inches of airspace between the light and the insulation to allow some cir culation. A better option is to buy replacement lamps that are marked "LC." This indicates the lamps are approved for direct contact with insulation.
Insulation not only keeps heat inside in winter, it keeps heat outside in summer. If you live in a warmer climate, consider installing a radiant barrier. Thin reflective plastic sheeting installed in the attic under the roof can reduce heat flow by 50 percent, thus reducing air-conditioning costs.
Ventilation plays a large role in controlling moisture and reducing summer cooling bills. As you're insulating, make sure you have adequate attic ventilation (about 1 square foot per 150 square feet of attic space). Also make sure there's good airflow, from the soffit all the way to the ridge.
Turn down the thermostat. Each degree you lower the dial in winter decreases your fuel bill an average of 3 percent. Going from 72 to 68 degrees may not feel like much, but it can save you 12 percent on your energy bill. To save even more, consider a programmable thermostat ($25). For an annual savings of 10 to 20 percent, set the unit to lower the temperature to 60 degrees when you're sleeping or away from home. The thermostat can also save you money in the summer by turning off the air conditioning during the cooler evening hours or when you're not at home.
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