"TAP" the Sun

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The collector sides, top, and bottom should be cut from the metal track to the proper size with aviation snips, drilled for assembly and mounting, and squared and riveted together as shown. Although it's not mandatory, you may want to paint the outside of your collector frame to match the color of your building but don't forget to prepare the surface first. Be sure to caulk all joints — inside and out — with silicone.

Attach and Insulate

Enlist the help of a friend for the final few steps of assembly: You'll need an extra pair of hands to hold things in place while you affix the collector to the wall. Lay the collector frame on the ground with its glazing side down, and apply a layer of silicone caulk all around the edge where the frame will contact the wall. Then quickly (before the caulk dries) position the assembly on the wall. Plumb and level the frame, and while your friend holds it tightly against the wall, drill 3/32-inch pilot holes through the guides in the frame and into the purlins. Attach the collector to the wall with No. 10-and-1 1/2-inch screws.

Using the remaining mounting holes as guides, drill 1/8-inch holes through the siding, and rivet the collector frame to the siding. Finally, caulk the perimeter of the frame carefully, filling all gaps.
To isolate your system thermally, cut rigid insulation to fit snugly into the top, bottom, and sides of the collector. Place a small amount of silicone on the inside of the track, press the insulation in place, and caulk all edges to create an effective seal.

Final Touches

The tempered glass sheet mounts to the collector frame on a 1/2-inch bead of silicone caulk (with neoprene blocks at the bottom edge for extra security) and is secured with a glazing cap made from drywall angle trimmed to the dimensions shown. Once you've cut the four lengths of cap, mark and drill 3/32-inch holes every 6 inches along the short side of the angle, and treat and paint them. Then glue the neoprene blocks to the collector frame as shown.

Thoroughly clean both sides of the glazing, and collect all the materials and tools you'll need for this last but crucial step. You'll need your electric drill with 3/32-inch bit, a fistful of No. 8-by-3/4-inch hexhead sheet metal screws with bonded washers, a 1/4-inch nut driver (or, better yet, an attachment for your drill), and silicone caulk.

Place the 1/2-inch bead of silicone on the frame, and lift the glass into place. (Remember, always carry glass on edge — never flat.) While your companion holds the glass, drill 3/32-inch starter holes in the collector frame, using the holes in the glazing caps as guides. Install the bottom cap first, and follow with the sides and top to give a shingled effect that will shed water. (The power screwdriver is a lifesaver at this stage.) For the best results, push the glazing cap firmly against the glass while you're placing the screws.

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