PLUMBING UP MOTHER'S SOLAR FURNACE
(Page 3 of 6)
With the boom completed, measure the distance (in inches) between the threaded tips of the two lengths of pipe on the lower portion of this piece of apparatus, then drill two holes in the boom support plate (placed far enough apart to correspond with the two pipes that make up the boom) and slip the two nipples through the metal plate as shown, taking care to "stagger" their lengths so the threaded ends will match up to the boom pipes evenly. Weld the nipples in place ... then take this opportunity to give the boom and the entire frame assembly a coat or two of rust-resistant paint.
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While the paint is drying, cut your length of 1/8" cable into four 10' and four 8' lengths. Fasten the longer strands through the holes on the circular boom plate and the shorter sections around the boom pipes just above the central flatplate spacer ... using threaded cable clamps. Once that's done, the free ends of the guys can be looped through the turnbuckle bolts and clamped in place.
Now attach the eight eyebolts at equal distances around the mirror frame (one at each corner and one at the midpoint of every section of "perimeter" conduit) ... and temporarily secure the gimbal frame by tying it—in an upright position—firmly to the furnace's base.
In order to lift the steam-generator-and-boom assembly into place atop the mirror frame, you'll need the help of several people and a couple of long poles with nails driven into their ends. Just put the "spikes" through the loops in the mast's upper cables, then—while one person stands below the mirror frame and holds the lower end of the boom—have the others "man the poles" and lift the assembly into position. When the boom pipes touch the protruding lengths of nipple in the support plate, join the two sections together. At the same time, have someone else fasten the turnbuckle on each guy wire to the eyebolts in the mirror frame ... this will help hold the boom aloft. Finish this assembly by tightening the two union joints at the base of the mast and drawing all eight guy wires taut.
The remainder of the plumbing consists of two lengths of hydraulic hose, assorted elbows and fittings, a pressure gauge, and several sections of Schedule 40 pipe as shown. Of course, both the inlet and outlet tubes must be equipped with control valves to regulate water feed and steam output, and all piping on the furnace should be fully insulated to prevent unnecessary heat loss. When installing the pressure gauge, be sure to include a complete loop in the copper tubing—as illustrated—to protect the instrument from water damage.
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