PLUMBING UP MOTHER'S SOLAR FURNACE

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Begin by salvaging a steel heat exchanger assembly (don't use an aluminum unit, as it won't be able to withstand the high temperatures it's likely to encounter) from an older model refrigerator, air conditioner, heating system, or what have you. A heat exchanger is nothing more than a continuous length of tubing, formed into a series of compact loops and surrounded by parallel rows of lightweight metal fins ... which help to transfer thermal energy. The size of this component isn't critical, as long as it's at least 4" X 18" X 18".

Next, cut your length of 3/8" steel brake line in half and insert its severed ends—about 2-1/2" apart—between the fins of the heat exchanger so they pass through the device at its midpoint. Then bend the steel conduit's flared ends, as necessary, to meet the inlet and outlet tubes on the exchanger... and fasten these two pairs of pipe together with the flare nuts provided. With the brake lines secure, predrill the steam generator support plate as shown, then braze and bolt it to the exchanger assembly.

Once the above steps are completed, take the four 1/8" X 1" X 4" flat-plate steam generator housing supports and bend each of them into a "dogleg" shape, then drill a hole in both ends of each support and attach them to the corners of the exchanger assembly ... using the rest of your long bolts.

You can now fashion a sheet-metal cover to house the steam generator (be sure to allow an extra inch or so of clearance around all four sides and the top to accommodate the insulation). Then cut the rigid insulation board to the same dimensions as the inside of the housing—leaving it about 3/4" shy at the lower part of the box—and join the sections together with aluminum tape.

The next step is to weld together an angle-iron frame to support the insulated exchanger cover (remember that this "platform" will fit along the inner perimeter of the box), and drill the mounting-bolt holes through the cover and the frame. When this is done, remove the sheet-metal box and fasten the "dogleg" supports (with heat exchanger attached) to the upper lip of the angle with sheet metal screws. Finish your new "boiler" with several coats of high-temperature flat black paint, then install its housing and secure that cover to the frame with sheet metal screws.

PLUMBING IT UP

Cut your black pipe to the lengths rioted, then fasten the two 10' sections to the steam generator ... using the fittings as illustrated. Drill the four perimeter holes—and the two center openings—in your 3/16" X 6" circular plate, slip the disc over the two support pipes (to a point approximately 36 inches from the bottom of the "boiler"), and weld it in place. While you're welding, you can also fasten the two flat spacer plates—positioned 36 inches apart—to each section of Schedule 40 pipe.

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