HOW TO BUILD - AND USE! - A SOLAR STILL

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We're now ready to start on the still's "wick". The 1/2-inch tubing used at the top and bottom to support the toweling is cut to size with a tubing cutter or fine hacksaw. Or give your hardware dealer accurate dimensions and ask him to do this for you.

In addition to holding the toweling in place, the top tube is the distributor for the water supply. To accomplish this we drill two rows of No. 50 holes, at right angles to each other. The holes do not go through both walls of the tubing and are spaced approximately 2 inches apart.

Our still uses a quart can as a reservoir. Cut the top from a large juice container and remove the paper. Next, cut a 4-inch length of 1/2-inch copper tubing and flatten one end in a vise or with a hammer. This tube will serve to meter the water into the long tube so that too much isn't fed to the toweling.

With a chisel, carefully cut a slit in the center of the reservoir's bottom. Allow the metal to bend inward slightly, and check the size of the slit until the flattened tube fits snugly with about 1/2 inch extending inside the can. Make sure the tube remains lined up while you solder it in place.

Now solder the cap onto the other end of the drilled top tube. Push the tube through the holes in the box, taking care not to tear the aluminum foil lining. Prop up the box so that it's tilted back about 45 degrees from the vertical and rotate the tube so that the two rows of holes are properly positioned to feed water into the toweling when it's looped around the tube. The tilt of our still will vary with the position of the sun, so we're striking a happy medium in locating these holes.

With the tube in the right position, force the end cap into the 3/4-inch hole. This should be a snug fit and hold the assembly in the proper place. Now solder the 1/2-inch elbow to the open end of the tube so that it points straight up. The free end of the tube soldered to the can is inserted in the elbow and soldered in place. Some water in the bottom of the can will prevent the joint at the can from melting while you work on the elbow.

Next attach a hinged 1-by-4 prop to the back of the box, using small wood screws as required. This supports the still and also gives us a means of adjusting the tilt to best face the sun. At this time also nail on the two legs, making sure to leave the proper one about 1/4-inch long so that water will run toward the fresh water drain.

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