HOW TO BUILD - AND USE! - A SOLAR STILL
(Page 3 of 6)
The two drain holes—both 1/4 inch in
diameter—can now be drilled. One is located in the
center of the bottom 1-by-4; the other is in the side
1-by-4, positioned at the vee formed by the bottom and
plywood back. Study the drawing to be sure of locating this
hole properly. The side drain can now be inserted.
RELATED CONTENT
Want to know how to build your own photovoltaic system, how to construct a solar water pump, or eve...
It’s not every day that you get a chance to tour a green home. Well, here’s your opportunity! Every...
A string of new solar manufacturing plants are scheduled to open within the next few years....
From California to New Jersey, utilities across the nation are pursuing developments in solar power...
How this family built a solar-powered heating unit for $25....
This is a good time to caulk the joints at the bottom and
sides and apply several coats of sealer to the inside of
the collector box . . . to make it watertight, and so that
the distilled water will run out the drain tube and not
seep through the bottom of the box. Allow to dry thoroughly
and check for leaks.
We know that any surface receiving heat will reradiate part
of that warmth. To prevent as much heat loss as possible,
and also to present a smooth surface for condensation of
water vapor, we'll line the inside of the box with aluminum
foil. Running the foil in one piece across the plywood back
and the bottom 1-by-4 will make an additional waterproof
layer to help proper drainage. Notice that the foil extends
into the bottom glass slot also.
A single piece of foil 24 inches wide will do the job. If
you find it necessary to use narrower foil, apply the
section toward the drain tube first and lap the other piece
over it. Use glue, rubber cement or airplane dope to apply
the covering. Start at the top, carefully unrolling the
foil for a smooth job. Let its edge extend a quarter inch
past the edge of the glass slot. This excess will be forced
into the slot later when the glass is slid into place. Next
line the inside surface of the other three 1-by-4's to
complete the job.
Since some salty or otherwise undesirable water may not be
evaporated before it reaches the bottom of the black towel
wick, we provide a vee-shaped trough to catch this waste
and prevent it from mixing with the distilled water at the
bottom of the still. Made from galvanized iron, this
24-inch trough is a 90-degree angle with legs 1-1/2 inches
wide. This can best be bent at the sheet metal shop.
Drill a hole in the very center of the angle, as shown in
Fig. 1, to receive the center 1/4-inch copper drain tube.
Put the short length of tubing in place and solder
securely. To keep the waste water from spilling out the
ends of the trough, curve it slightly by "crimping" its
edges in several places.
Once the drain trough is completed it may be put in place
by inserting the copper tube in the hole drilled for it.
This should be a snug fit. Carefully punch through the
aluminum foil first with a pencil, then press the trough
down until it just touches the foil at the center.
Page:
<< Previous 1 |
2 | 3 |
4 |
5 |
6 |
Next >>