Better Beef

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In contrast to grass-fed beef, forager Moore adds, “grain-finishing tends to ‘homogenize’ the taste, to smooth the flavor over so it all tastes the same, and a lot of Americans want that.” Grass-fed beef lovers, on the other hand, want “excitement in their eating,” which translates to the subtle but definite flavor differences.

Dedlow says at Chez Panisse they tasted a lot of grass-fed beef before they settled on the ones they really liked: “You just have to keep looking.”

If you want to find a high-quality, reliable source of grass-fed beef, search first for locally produced grass-fed meat and do it during the grass-fed season — late spring and early summer.

Start by checking your natural food stores, food co-ops and farmer’s markets. Many grass-fed beef producers are marketing their products through such venues. Also, check with your county Extension office; across the country, offices often maintain lists of local farmers and the products they sell. The following Web sites allow you to key in your zip code or city and state to get many local listings: www.eatwild.com, www.localharvest.org and www.eatwellguide.org.

Eatwild.com, for example, provides a place for grass farmers to advertise their products. You can read about the criteria farmers must meet to be listed at Eatwild.com on the “Eatwild Pastured Products Directory.”

Watch out for the terminology. Until the USDA formally defines the terms associated with this kind of beef, you will find a variety of names used in the marketplace. “Grass-finished” is what you want to find; ask what “grass-fed” means; be suspicious of any others.

After you have compiled your list of potential local sources, you will want to check them out personally, much as Moore does for Chez Panisse. Ask plenty of questions about any product you may consider buying. Eatwild.com advises “Buyer Beware” and offers tips on “How to make sure you’re getting healthy, tender meat” at www.eatwild.com/tenderhealthy.html.

The grass-fed industry is growing so quickly that meat quality is uneven right now. Also, tastes do reflect the grasses and minerals in the pastures where animals are grazed, so differences may arise that have nothing to do with quality. The more questions you ask before you buy, the better your chances will be of getting meat that satisfies you.

If you’re not happy with your initial purchase from a particular source, go back and talk with that producer about your experience with his or her product. Try different sources in your area until you find one you like. Then, support that farmer to the best of your ability.

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