How to Store Fresh Vegetables
(Page 3 of 6)
December/January 2005
By David Cavagnaro
One stinky, rotten winter squash oozing through the floorboards is a quick reminder that all stored vegetables, upstairs or down, must be policed regularly for decay, though. I place each squash and onion on a thick bed of newspapers, which will absorb the juices in case a rotting one escapes notice now and then.
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Root Cellar Storage
For all vegetables that require cold storage, a root cellar reigns supreme. A properly designed root cellar insures an abundant supply of fresh vegetables from the last garden harvests or markets of autumn until May. Together with good keepers stored in the house, the last root-cellared vegetables easily meet up with the first greens that can be grown in the spring, thus guaranteeing a full year’s supply of garden-fresh vegetables, even in a climate with eight months of winter.
Many designs have been tried over centuries of root-cellaring history, but the main criteria remain constant: A temperature barely above freezing (33 to 35 degrees) must be achieved as quickly as possible in the fall and maintained as late as possible in spring, and humidity should be held somewhat in check. The best root cellars usually are constructed adjacent to or separate from the house, and far enough underground to be insulated against extreme winter cold but not so earth-sheltered that the 55-degree ground temperature keeps the space too warm. An airlock between inner and outer doors provides further temperature regulation, and two closeable vents, one low to let in cold night air and one in the ceiling to let warmer air escape, allow the space to cool quickly in the fall, then be sealed for winter. All openings must be rodent-proof; failing that, rodent vigilance must be rigorously maintained.
Keeping humidity down is a harder problem to solve. A full root cellar, especially one filled with potted plants that need occasional watering, generates a lot of moisture that condenses on concrete walls and ceilings. A dry earthen floor helps to absorb excess moisture and is preferable to concrete. Some folks also prefer a wooden root cellar with a well-insulated attic rather than an earth-covered concrete roof, thus insuring that the space breathes and moisture can escape.
Vegetables we store in the root cellar fall into three broad categories: root crops, green vegetables replanted in containers, and those grown in containers in the first place. In addition, most storage vegetables are biennials that can be planted out again the following spring for seed-saving purposes.
The easiest and best-known root cellar crops are, as the name implies, the root vegetables. Of all these, potatoes are unique in being frost tender; they alone determine that the root cellar never be allowed to dip below freezing, even though temperatures just above freezing are perfect for long-term storage without sprouting. The tubers may be kept in boxes or spread out on shelves. Since potatoes gradually turn green when exposed to light and thus begin to produce the same toxins that make potato plants poisonous, the darkness of a root cellar is perfect for storing them. One word of caution, however: If your root cellar has a tendency to freeze during very cold spells, leaving one 100-watt light bulb burning constantly may keep the space tempered, but that same light will turn your potatoes green. If you choose this step, keep your potatoes in closed or covered boxes.
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