In Search Perfect Skillet

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Today's quality nonstick skillets with heavy-gauge exteriors are built to last, and often have lifetime guarantees. To improve durability of the nonstick coating, some companies have developed a thicker version by creating a textured surface to which multiple layers of the coating are applied. The idea is that the wear will occur on the top of the bumps, preserving the nonstick surface underneath.

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Despite these improvements, nonstick, were not among my favorites. Depending on the pan's exterior metal, nonsticks don't heat up as quickly or brown foods as well as stick-resistant pans. Nonsticks also require special treatment: strictly forbidden are metal utensils, high cooking temperatures, and the use of dishwashers or abrasive cleaners.

According to a representative for one nonstick manufacturer, All-Clad, nonstick skillets discolor because of a buildup of food or of an oil residue both of which can be cleaned away with a nylon pad and Bar Keepers Friend cleanser. If the residue is burned on the surface, try soaking the pan in denture cleaner and water!

If a nonstick pan is your choice, you'll need to decide which exterior surface you prefer. I ruled out sorne nonsticks with black anodized and brushed aluminum exteriors because of concerns about scratch-resistance based on the condition of store samples and reports from owners.

Cast Iron

It's no wonder some folks swear by their trusty cast iron skillets. Virtually indestructible, they cook fast once they're heated and handle the highest temperatures with ease. They're great for Cajun-style blackening; we use my grandma's to blacken fish on the grill, and to make corn bread in the oven. Iron skillets improve with age and can last several lifetimes.

Secondhand 10- or 12-inch cast iron skillets can be better than new ones. They're inexpensive, too, at $15 to $20 in flea markets or antique shops, although the collectible Wagner or Griswold brands usually will cost more.

The downside is these skillets are heavy, the handles get hot and the food can stick if the cast iron isn't properly seasoned or cleaned. There also can be problems with uneven heating, and the reactive metal does absorb and release food odors.

But on a Wisconsin winter's morning, I just love my brother-in-law's fried potatoes, cooked in his favorite 16-inch iron skillet, on his wood-burning stove.

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