Cilantro

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by Barbara Pleasant

Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) is really two herbs in one. The leaves, called cilantro or Chinese parsley, impart a musky, citrus-like (some even say "soapy") flavor to Mexican, Chinese and Thai cooking. The tiny, round seeds, called coriander, taste of sage and lemon or orange peel, and season many traditional Indian dishes, especially curries.

Coriander roots also have culinary use. In Southeast Asia, they are dug, chopped and added to salty pickled condiments by many kitchen gardeners.

This easy-to-grow herb is rich in vitamins A and C, and also contains iron and calcium. In the garden, coriander flowers attract beneficial insects. At the flowering and fruit-set stage, the plants give off a slightly acrid smell, which is probably why this herb's botanical name is derived from the Greek word for bedbug, which emits a similar color. In mature seeds, this odor vanishes.

Some people find the unique smell and taste of fresh cilantro unpleasant, but those of this opinion are definitely in the minority because the herb's popularity has skyrocketed in recent years. Cilantro enthusiasts eagerly eat the leaves raw, chopped into salsas or salads, and layered onto sandwiches.

Cilantro is essential in Pad Thai — Thailand's best-known noodle dish — a delicious, spicy-sweet mix of rice noodles, tofu, shrimp or chicken, and eggs, flavored with fish sauce, garlic, chilies and ginger (in addition to cilantro), and topped with peanuts. When used as a topping for rice noodles or in Oriental clipping sauces, cilantro and roasted peanuts often are chopped together.

Down Mexico way, cilantro always brings salsa to life, whether it's tomato haled, with avocados and beans, or fruit-based, using peaches, mangoes or even apples. For tamer palates, a bit of minced cilantro mixed into equal parts of butter and cream cheese makes a wonderful herb spread. Minced leaves stirred into sour cream make a refreshing accent for chili or other spicy soups. Add cilantro to cooked dishes, such as rice pilafs Or beans, at the last minute, to preserve its color and flavor.

Coriander seeds, on the ocher hand, respond well to heat. When cooking with them, roast the seeds first in a warm, dry pan until you can smell their nutty aroma; the roasting only takes a few minutes but it produces an absolutely divine scent. Then, coarsely grind or chop the roasted seeds with a heavy knife, or mortar and pestle. A few crushed coriander seeds make a welcome addition to any curry dish, and provide an ideal accompaniment to lentils, rice, mushrooms, tomatoes and many ether vegetables. Left whole and coated with sugar rather than roasted, the seeds make a dessert-type treat called coriander comfit.

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