Basil 'Passport to Paradise'
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Barbara Pleasant
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by Barbara Pleasant
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Fresh basil may well be the signature herb of summer,
perfuming our gardens and flavoring our foods with its
delightful clovelike essence.
Historically, basil has been associated with emotions
ranging from love to hate. Various religious sects have
used it ceremonially to pave the way to both heaven and
hell; according to early 20th-century herbalist Maude
Grieve, "Every good Hindu goes to his rest with a Basil
leaf on his breast. This is his passport to Paradise."
COOKING WITH BASIL
Not surprisingly, admiration for this delicious and
aromatic herb eventually won out over ancient fears of its
mystical powers; today, few basil lovers ever get enough of
it to eat. Fresh basil leaves are closely associated with
traditional Italian foods, especially pasta and tomatoes,
and basil also has deep roots in the cuisines of Thailand
and India, where the first plants probably originated.
Contemporary basil-crazy cooks find many ways to use it.
Basil pairs well with pasta or tomatoes, but it also works
nicely with a number of other vegetables, from asparagus to
summer squash.
The quirky thing about basil is in the cooking—it
should be added only at the end of the process because when
cooked, it quickly loses its bouquet. This characteristic
may be one reason that pesto—a thick, pureed sauce of
fresh basil leaves, olive oil, garlic and nuts—is the
most popular way to make use of a copious supply. Basil
also can be used raw in marinades, as a wrap or in salads
to delicious effect.
Preserving basil for winter use can be tricky. It blackens
when bruised, cut or frozen, and loses much of its flavor
when dried, so handle it carefully. In summer, many
gardeners freeze small containers of prepared pesto for
wintertime treats. Other great ways to save a little basil
magic are to make and freeze basil cream sauce (see our
low-fat recipe, Page 80), or to freeze individual leaves.
Just rinse and gently pat the leaves dry, lay them out on a
cookie sheet and pop them in the freezer. After an hour or
so, when they are frozen crisp, quickly transfer them to a
labeled storage container and place it in the freezer.
Basil vinegar and basil-infused oil are tasty options for
hoarding the herb's flavor, too.
CHOOSING VARIETIES
The best culinary basils are called sweet basils,
classified botanically as Ocimum basilicum. My personal
favorites are the small-leafed globe basils 'Spicy Bush' or
'Minette,' which fit into tight spaces and are very slow to
flower. For flavor, it's hard to go wrong with any variety
described as a "Genovese type." I love small-leafed
'Piccolo' or 'Fino Verde,' too, but I know better than to
get stuck on a favorite. Plenty of good ones, including
subspecies that carry scents of cinnamon, lemon and even
anise or camphor, are available. All of these are fun to
grow, though I have settled upon lemon basils as the only
scented strains for my garden. A few plants of a
dark-leafed red or opal basil, such as 'Red Rubin,' add
lovely color to the garden, too.
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