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The simple art of baking bread.

Photography by Hubert Schriebl

The second rising doesn't really count as a step - after all, the dough does the work. You can tend your garden, curl up with a book or go for a long walk.

The equipment list is pretty short, too. You need an oven capable of heating up to 475°F (245°C) for at least 20 minutes, a small sheet pan, a bowl with a plastic bag to cover it, and an accurate clock. Most of the other necessary items can be found in any minimally-stocked kitchen (see " Tools "). It's best if your room temperature is a moderate 60 to 70°F but there are ways to compensate for deviations in temperature (see " Breadbaking Tips ").

The following recipe will yield two loaves, about 1 1/2 pounds each, of basic French bread. It's a slightly sour bread with a crisp crust and a chewy interior. Don't let the 12-hour first rise alarm you - if you assemble the dough in the evening and let it sit overnight, the hours go by pretty quickly. After the first rise, you can mix in any number of ingredients for a little variety, but get comfortable with the basic recipe first.

BASIC FRENCH (OVERNIGHT) BREAD

2 lbs. unbleached white flour (6 1/2 cups unsifted)
1 teaspoon instant yeast (or 1 1/2 dry yeast) dissolved in water below
2 cups plus 2 tablespoons warm water (100°F to 120°F)
3 1/2 teaspoons sea salt

Combine all ingredients together in a large bowl and mix with your hands, or use a five-quart mixer with a bread hook attachment. Then, knead for five to ten minutes until smooth and elastic. (You can leave the dough in the bowl while you're knead ing or turn it out onto a light ly floured sur face.) Put dough cover it with a plastic sheet or bag, and let it rise overnight in a warm and still environment.

After the first rise, the dough should resemble a stringy spider web when stretched out. Punch it down, then divide and shape the dough into loaves of any shape. You can now set it aside for the second rise, or proofing, which will take about three hours.

The dough of these sour breads tends to be a little tough, but don't be tempted to add water - the dough will be more malleable after the first rise. It's only after the 12-hour rise that you should be concerned about the dough being too dry. I was once given a recipe that said, "add as much water as is needed," but this is poor advice. What feels right at mixing time won't necessarily be fine for baking 12 hours later.