Holiday Heirlooms

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Somewhere between my grandmother's wedding silverware and an odd assortment of vintage tablecloths lies my collection of family heirloom recipes. Oil-streaked ink on yellowed pages gives me a glimpse of how, decades ago, my relatives provided more than food for their families; they created fond childhood memories. My grandmother's Christmas chocolate roll was my favorite. We would relish our delicious chocolate slices after Christmas dinner, knowing there wouldn't be second helpings. (I suspect that my grandma looked forward to those few remaining slices the next day as her small reward for preparing such a feast.) My husband, on the other hand, fondly remembers his grandma's recipe for chicken 'n dumplings, a Sunday tradition that began during World War II.

Just recently, my mother and I sorted through a box of family cookbooks and recipes dating hack to before the turn of the century. As I read my great-grandmother's favorite recipes and began comparing past and present methods of food preparation, it struck me that nowadays we sure have it easy. Back then, cookbook recipes contained few directions and great grandma had to rely on cooking tips from relatives. Much of the food was smoked, pickled and canned because it was difficult to keep it fresh in an icebox (thank goodness for Ziploc bags!). There was no such thing as an oven temperature until the first kerosene stove outdated the wood burner during the 1920s. Baking a pumpkin pie? You'd have to cook the pumpkin, since there weren't any canned goods. And men were seldom caught in the kitchen, unless to eat.

Well, we've come a long way, baby. Like old silver, heirloom recipes are a part of our heritage. Our ancestors prepared them with love to nourish their families, leaving us with memories that we'll pass on to our children. But in order to enjoy them today, a few alterations are necessary for the sake of healthy living.

Chocolate Roll (serves 6)

I tried-and failed-to bake a chocolate roll from my grandma's 1930's settlement cookbook. Maybe it was the vague directions, or perhaps it wasn't her recipe after all. My next tack was to combine three recipes, one of which was from a 1972 Good Housekeeping magazine that I found at a garage sale.

Mocha Filling
1 pint whipping cream
2 to 3 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
2 tablespoons sifted cocoa powder
1/2 teaspoon instant espresso powder

Using an electric mixer, whip the cream on medium-high speed until it starts to thicken. Add the rest of the in-
ingredients and beat slowly until it forms peaks. Taste and see if it needs more sugar. Immediately .. spread onto the cake (see below)