THE FLOURING INFERNO

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Freezing Chilies

Write the variety and date on a small, Ziplock freezer bag, using a permanent marker. (I use a different color every year, so it's easier to locate last years produce.) Put whole chilies in the bag and freeze for up to a year; after that, the flavor starts to disintegrate. Larger peppers, such as poblano, will need to be cut in half with the stem and seeds removed. Another freezing method is to remove the seeds and stems, mince in the food processor, spoon into a freezer bag, and freeze.

Later, just break off apiece and throw it into whatever is cooking. Use within three months.

Drying Chilies

Some varieties work better than others. Jalapeños, for example, are juicy with a thick skin, so they'll mold before they'll dry out. Our general rule is to dry only mature red chilies and to use skinny varieties with thin skins such as cayennes. The cayennes look nice hung up on a string to dry, but laying them on a plate will work just as well. Keep them in a dry place for at least a week before storing them in a jar. Sometimes, if we have a surprise frost, we cut down the pepper plants and bring them inside. We rubberband the branches together and hang the plants upside down to dry. I've had one hanging next to the kitchen window all winter, so I can pick a pepper whenever I need one.

Chili Relief" de Queso (Medium-Hot)

When I was teaching in a Headstart program, a Latina mom brought some homemade chili rellenos to school. I thought they were so delicious that I asked her to teach me how to make them.

6 to 8 medium green poblano peppers (The red poblanos are too hot.)
4 eggs, separated
1/4 teaspoon salt
about 1/2 cup flour, for dipping
1 medium onion, chopped fine
1/2 pound Mexican Chihuahua cheese or Muenster or Monterey Jack canola oil

Lay the peppers on a foil-lined cookie sheet. Roast under the broiler until mostly blackened on all sides, turning them as needed. Cool and remove blackened skins. Make a one-inch cut from the stem down on each pepper. To remove the seed duster, cut just below the stem, keeping the stem intact. This is tricky because you want the stem to remain on the pepper. Saute the onion in a few drops of oil and let cool a few minutes. Grate the cheese and mix in a bowl with the onions. Have a large nonstick skillet ready. Put some flour in a shallow dish. To stuff the peppers, push the cheese through the opening. (They shouldn't be packed with cheese.) Roll each pepper in flour. Using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites in a shallow mixing bowl until fluffy but not stiff. In a separate bowl, beat the egg yolks and salt. Fold them into the egg whites.

Heat the skillet on medium-high heat and add a tablespoon of oil. Dip a floured poblano carefully into the egg mixture, rolling it if you need to so the pepper will be generously covered. Place into the hot skillet (it should sizzle). Repeat the process until the pan is full. Turn the poblanos over after about a minute and keep turning until they're browned on all sides, adding a few more drops of oil at a time as needed. Lay on the foil-lined cookie sheet and keep warm in a 300°F oven for up to 15 minutes, if needed.

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