A SEASON OF WILD GAME

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A QUESTION OF NUTRITION
Wild game not only has one-third the fat of beef, but it isn't laden with chemical.

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Preparing Venison for Cooking

How the deer is dispatched, transported, dressed, and stored will affect the texture and flavor of the meat. The age and diet of the animal also affect the quality. Some people dislike venison because they think it has a strong odor and gamey taste. This can occur when the deer isn't bled immediately and aged (cooled) properly. A strong gamey taste can also be avoided by removing all fat and tallow (the thin membrane next to the fat) before cooking or freezing. At this stage of the game it pays to hang out with hunting experts or to visit your local library.

The back and saddle of the venison are the most tender cuts, and the shoulder and leg should be used for long-cooking recipes such as stews or chili. Tougher cuts can be tenderized by marinating or cooking them in acidic ingredients such as wine, vinegar, or tomatoes. Herbs and spices such as oregano, thyme, sage, rosemary, nutmeg, cinnamon, and allspice can help disguise a strong-tasting meat. Since venison is a lean meat, some additional fat may be needed, such as olive oil, beef or chicken broth, or a small amount of smoked bacon or pancetta. Since game isn't subject to USDA inspection, I'd avoid cooking the meat rare and recommend a pink interior so the internal temperature will be higher. Like lamb, venison should be served immediately before the fat congeals.

Storing and Freezing

Venison can either be hung at 36–40°F to age (break down the cells) or wrapped and aged in the freezer. The game should be wrapped in small packages to avoid excess raw meat. The meat will stay fresh for up to 12 months at 0°F if it is double-wrapped in freezer paper, avoiding freezer burn. Once defrosted, the meat should be cooked within 24 hours unless it's in a marinade. Ground meats should be used sooner.

NO NEED TO WASTE
The shoulder and leg, though not the most tender cuts, are great for stews and chili.

Venison Stew with Dried Cranberries

The dried cranberries add a delicious sweetness and texture to this stew. If they are unavailable in your area, they can be mail-ordered through: American Spoon Foods, P .O. Box 0566, Petoskey, MI 49770-0566.

1 1/2 pounds boneless venison stew meat - cut into 1/2-inch pieces 1/4 cup flour 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 teaspoon olive oil1 large onion — peeled, halved, and thinly sliced 2 large cloves garlic — minced1 1/2 cups dry red wine (white wine will also work) 1 1/2 cups unsalted beef flavored broth (I use Health Valley natural beef broth, which is without lard) 1 teaspoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon allspice 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground pepper 1 cup dried cranberries (see above) dash olive oil2 cups mushrooms — thinly sliced (I use brown crimini mushrooms, but plain button or wild mushrooms are also good) chopped parsley

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