Off the Cob

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Husks should be tight and green (never yellow), with moist, white corn silk. Kernels should be plump and tightly packed with the smaller kernels at the tip of the cob. Pop one with your fingernail and a milky juice should squirt out (an older ear will ooze a thick paste). Also look for worms, which leave brownish patches near the top of the ear. Buy only frozen corn during the year; canned corn has lost most of its nutrients and supermarket corn on the cob has traveled long distances and simply isn't fresh.

Storage and Preparation

Keep corn in the husks and in the refrigerator if you plan to use it later the same day. Otherwise, husk and steam the corn immediately for one to two minutes and then bag the whole precooked corn, or cut the corn off the cob and refrigerate it for up to three days. At preparation time, cook the corn as usual, reducing the cooking time slightly.

I love to freeze corn myself because it tastes so much better than commercially frozen corn. I buy four dozen ears at the local farm on Saturdays at 7 a.m. Then I bribe my son into husking them and steam the ears in two large kettles. I cut the corn off the cobs immediately so the kernels don't shrivel and put them in a large bowl to cool thoroughly. Then I spoon them into freezer bags until they're 3/4 full, label and date, and press the bags flat. (Freeze bags of corn lying flat; they can be stored upright after frozen.)

Corn tastes best when not overcooked, so cook until tender but still crisp. If desired, use minimal butter. But if you ask me, fresh corn has enough flavor by itself.

Steam: In a large, covered pot, place a steamer in 1" of water. Put in husked ears and bring water to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer for five minutes until tender. Or turn off the heat early and continue to steam until serving time (up to 20 minutes).

Stir fry: If you're tired of eating corn on the cob, cut it right off and stir fry quickly in a little butter and seasoning. Chop some fresh basil to stir in just before serving.

Grill: Soak unhusked corn in a bucket of cold water for at least 30 minutes. When coals are hot, place the ears on a rack resting directly on the coals. Cook for 15 minutes, turning with the tongs.

Microwave: Leave husks on but pull off some thick outer layers. Microwave for two to three minutes, rotate, and turn corn; microwave for two to three more minutes (the time varies depending on size and maturity of corn; to see if it' s done, peel back the husk and check near the base of the ear.)

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