ABOUT SQUASH

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Though sun lovers, squash are made up mostly of water, so they don't do well in hot, dry regions with limited moisture. This is particularly true of winter squash. And—like their relatives, cucumbers and melons—both summer and winter types are sensitive to cold weather, even though most winter squash can tolerate light shade and cooler night time temperatures better than summer varieties can. Squash are also heavy feeders and need a light, well-drained but moisture-retentive soil heavily enriched with compost and well-rotted manure. The pH range should be 6 to 7.

Plant seeds when the earth has warmed (the minimum soil temperature for germination is 60°F) and the air temperatures have settled, usually about one week after the last spring frost date. In areas with a short growing season, sow the seeds indoors in peat pots one month before it's time to set the plants outdoors. Put two seeds to a pot, and discard the weaker seedling. Water well just before setting them out, and try not to disturb the roots when transplanting.

Keep in mind that summer squash produce more heavily than winter squash. Germination rates are 75%, and unused seed can be stored for four to five years.

When planting in hills, space summer squash three feet apart; vining winter varie ties need to be six to eight feet apart. Sow six or seven seeds per hill in a 12-inch-diameter circle at a depth of one-half to one inch deep, and thin to the three strongest seedlings when the plants are three inches tall.

Pick the blossomsof squash, too; they're delicious to eat.

Conventional rows can also be used by spacing vining varieties three to four feet apart in rows set eight to 12 feet apart; bush types should be placed two to three feet apart in rows spaced four to six feet apart. Some gardeners intersperse winter squash with corn, allowing the sprawling vines to utilize the corn stalks as climbing poles. Those with limited garden space often tie three poles together and spread them to form a tripod, planting a squash seed at the base of each pole. You can also train vining varieties along wire fences or on firmly supported growing nets.

Whatever the method of planting, give seedlings plenty of water, and keep the soil consistently moist throughout the growing period. However, to prevent the spread of such diseases as mildew, try to avoid spraying the foliage directly, and don't handle the plants while they're wet. Dig up any weeds around the plants until the vines begin to lengthen, then put down a thick mulch of hay, straw or leaves.

Male squash blossoms, which have a single fat stamen in their centers, appear first, followed about a week later by female flowers, which have a large swelling (the ovary) just behind the blossom, as well as a four-part pistil in the flower's center. Since squash aren't self-pollinating (they depend on bees or other insects to do this job), female blooms that drop off without producing fruit probably haven't been fertilized. (This is usually due to adverse weather.) To prevent this, use a soft brush to transfer pollen from the male stamen to the female pistil.

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