Fruit Soups

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SUMMER IN A BOWL

Simmer up soups from the season's fresh fruits and berries.

COLLAGES BY RONNIE SHUSAN AND SANDRA MCKEE  

Fruit A variety of fruits lend themselves to soup-all kinds of berries, the stone fruits (peaches, plums, apricots, nectarines, cherries) and melons (cantaloupe, honeydew, watermelon). While fresh fruit is always best and is mandatory when using melons, frozen fruit can yield excellent results. In fact, making soup is one of the best ways to use up the surplus crop that fills your freezer. Even canned fruit works well.

Because a fruit soup has relatively few ingredients, the taste of each one shines through; the quality of the fruit is critical. Underripe, overripe, off-flavored or badly freezer-burned fruit will produce an unhappy result.

Liquid. When melons are pureed, they turn watery. Thus, soups based on them often require no added liquid. But for other fruits, liquid is required: water, milk (whole, low fat and skim are all good), cream, wine, fruit juice (for example, apple or white grape juice) or some combination of these.

Sweetener. As sweet as it is, when fruit is diluted with liquid, it usually requires some added sugar, honey or artificial sweetener. Soups can vary from tart, perhaps for a first course, to very sweet for desserts.

Spice. Most common are cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice and cardamom.

Liquor. Common sources of additional flavor are liquors, especially cognac and rum, and liqueurs-either a contrasting flavor such as Grand Marnier or amaretto, or a brandy derived from the same fruit as the soup.

Toppings. Garnishes include dollops of yogurt, sour cream and, for dessert soups, whipped cream.

So go ahead. Toss some fruit in the blender, add some milk or wine, sweeten to taste, chill well-and sup divinely.

Simple Strawberry Soup
Strawberries, cleaned and hulled Milk Sugar, honey or artificial sweetener

Place the strawberries in a blender, and add enough milk to cover them. Blend until the mixture is smooth. If the soup is too thick, add some more milk, and blend again. Add sweetener, a tablespoon or a packet at a time, until the soup is as sweet as you want it. Chill well.

Strawberry Watermelon Soup 3 cups watermelon cubes 2 cups whole strawberries 1/2 cup orange juice I teaspoon fresh lemon juice 1/2 teaspoon allspice 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon 1/8 teaspoon ginger 11/2 tablespoons sugar 3/4 cup milk

In a food processor or blender, puree the watermelon. Add the remaining ingredients except the milk, and puree until smooth. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, and stir in the milk. Chill well.

Basic Peach Soup 2 ripe peaches, peeled and pitted 1/2 cup milk 1 tablespoon sugar, or other sweetener to taste In a blender or food processor, puree all ingredients until smooth. Chill well.

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