Autumn Tarts

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Embarrassing admission no. 2: In testing recipes for this article, I made the crust described above for the first few tarts; it drew compliments. As deadline approached and shortcuts beckoned, I bought a Pillsbury All Ready Pie Crust, which I considered too salty and not sweet enough for a tart crust. (Ignore the crust, I was prepared to say, just taste the filling.) It drew compliments. On the spot, I concluded that if the people I cook for have no particular preference between a crust that takes an hour to make and one that requires 30 seconds, I may well have rolled my last piece of dough. If you also cook for nonpurists, you might want to investigate this unfold-and-bake product.

Blind baking. Caution: Don't start blind baking your pie crusts-partially pre-baking an empty shell-unless you are prepared to continue for the rest of your cooking career. The crust will be so much firmer and crisper that you will never be content with a soggy bottom again. Particularly useful with liquid or custard fillings, blind baking is, fortunately, simple and fast.

Preheat oven to 425°F. Place pastry in tart pan, line with foil-shiny side down, so as not to reflect the heat-and fill with dry beans, pushing them into the bottom edges. (The beans can be stored and used repeatedly.) Bake about 15 minutes, until bottom is set and sides are lightly browned. If the filling is particularly runny, add a second step: Brush the bottom with a beaten egg yolk, and bake another two minutes, until glaze is dry. Your crust is now ready to be filled and baked.

Apple Tart

1 8- or 9-inch tart shell, partially baked 2 pounds cooking apples 1/4 cup butter 1/2 cup apricot jam, divided 1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar, divided Grated rind of 1 lemon 1/4 cup apple brandy 1 pound eating apples 2 tablespoons lemon juice, divided

Peel, core, and coarsely chop cooking apples. (If you have a food processor, leave apples unpeeled; when cooked and processed, the puree will have an attractive pink color and a greater depth of flavor. Without a processor, separating out the cooked peel is difficult, although it can be done.) Melt butter in medium saucepan, add apples, cover, and cook until soft and mushy. Mash apples with vegetable masher, process, or rub through sieve until smooth. Add 1/4 cup of the apricot jam, 1/3 cup of the sugar, lemon rind and apple brandy. Cook over high heat, stirring constantly, until excess liquid has evaporated and applesauce is thick. Set aside to cool. Meanwhile, peel, core, and thinly slice eating apples. Toss with 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice and 2 tablespoons remaining sugar. Spoon applesauce into partially baked tart shell, and arrange apple slices in an overlapping circle around the edge of the tart, then arrange second and third circles inside that. Bake at 350°F 25-30 minutes. Cool 10 minutes. Combine remaining 1/4 cup apricot jam with remaining 1 tablespoon lemon juice, stir over medium heat 2-3 minutes, strain, and, while still warm, paint apple slices with glaze. Serve warm or chilled.

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