The Well-Dressed Salad
(Page 4 of 5)
May/June 1988
By Carol Taylor
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Dijon mustard helps thicken and stabilize a vinaigrette. In small amounts, it doesn't make the dressing taste mustardy, but adds a savory, spicy depth.
Citrus —the juice of lemons or limes, or even oranges or grapefuit if you're in the mood—can replace all or part of the vinegar, with excellent results. Citrus imparts a clean, fresh taste.
Herbs, fresh snipped or dried, have enlivened many a vinaigrette. The choices are legion, but the most common are parsley, garlic, chives, tarragon, basil, oregano, dill, mint and thyme.
Cream —heavy cream, sour cream, yogurt, créme fraîche—can add substance to a salad dressing, useful if the meal otherwise seems too light.
Dress Code
Salad dressings provide the widest possible latitude for creativity. But there are some suggestions that even a mad chemist can benefit from.
Vary the proportions to suit yourself. The traditional three-to-one ratio of oil to vinegar pleases many people much of the time, so it's a good rule of thumb to start from. But tastes vary. The "correct" proportions will depend on how acid you like your dressings, the relative strengths of the particular oil and vinegar, the pungency of the citrus and mustard (if you're using them) and so on. Four parts oil, or two, or one may be your preference. Whatever your individual base line, taste the dressing when it's made, and adjust it if necessary.
Dry the greens. Oil and water are legendary antagonists. If the greens are wet, the water will repel and dilute the dressing, resulting in a watery-tasting salad.
Nobody loves a soggy salad. Either make the dressing in a separate container and add it to the greens at the last minute; or make the dressing in the salad bowl, layer the greens on top, then toss just before serving.
Don't overdress. The dressing should coat the greens, not drown them. If there's a puddle of dressing left in the bottom of the bowl, try using less.
Think balance. Ideally, the oil and the vinegar will complement each other, the greens they cover, and the rest of the meal. Again, tastes are highly individual, but as an initial guideline, match strength with strength: a robust vinegar with a powerful oil, a delicate vinegar with a milder oil. Strong, bitter greens call for an assertive vinaigrette, milder lettuce for a gentler sauce. Even texture makes a difference: Firm, crunchy leaves can stand up to a heavier dressing than can more delicate greens.
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