FIXING FISH

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The important thingis not how you cook it but when you stop.

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Broiling. Preheat the broiler for 10 minutes. Oil a broiling pan (or coat it with nonstick spray), place the fish on the rack, brush with butter or oil (or butter and lemon juice) and broil 2 to 4 inches from the heat for 10 minutes per inch, basting and checking for doneness frequently. Only very thick pieces should be turned during cooking.

Poaching. Texture largely determines whether a fish poaches well. Soft-textured fish—bluefish, for example—disintegrate in a simmering liquid. Firm fish—perch, trout, salmon, swordfish, snapper, in fact most fish—hold their shape.

The traditional poaching liquid is a court bouillon ("coor boo-yon"), a vegetable-and-wine broth that varies with the cook. A typical list of ingredients: 6 1/2 cups water; 1 1/2 cups dry white wine; 1 large carrot, sliced; 1 rib celery, sliced; 1/2 lemon, sliced; 2 sprigs parsley; 6 black peppercorns; 1 bay leaf. Simmer the ingredients for 10 to 15 minutes to combine the flavors.

To poach fish, prepare the court bouillon (or use a liquid of your own devising) in a large pot. Wipe the fish with paper towels, place it on a rack and lower it into boiling liquid. Cover the pot. When the liquid returns to a boil, immediately reduce the heat until the liquid quivers but does not boil. (Small bubbles should rise gently from the bottom.) Cook 10 minutes per inch, checking for doneness 1 or 2 mintues earlier.

Plain poached fish can be rather bland. Plan to serve it with a sauce or condiment.

Frying. Fish can be pan-fried (in a little oil) or deep-fried (in a lot).

Pan-frying: Heat 1/8 to 1/4 inch vegetable oil in a heavy skillet until oil is medium hot (a drop of water should sizzle when dropped into the oil). Wipe the fish with paper towels, dust with seasoned flour (a mix of flour, salt and pepper) and fry 10 minutes per inch, dividing the time between the two sides and checking for doneness 1 or 2 minutes earlier. Don't crowd the fish while they're cooking, or the oil will cool and the fish will be soggy. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately.

Deep-frying: Make a batter and chill it. (Any flour-based batter will do. One example: Combine 1 cup flour, 3 tablespoons cornstarch, l teaspoon salt, dash nutmeg and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Add 1 cup beer and 1 tablespoon oil and mix until smooth.)

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