FIXING FISH
(Page 3 of 6)
The Canadian method. Lay the fish on the
counter and measure it at its thickest part. Then,
regardless of cut or cooking technique, cook it 10 minutes
per inch, even if it's stuffed or rolled. The only
exceptions: 15 minutes per inch if cooked in foil, 20
minutes if frozen.
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Nothing so simple should work so well. Devised by the
Canadian Department of Fisheries, the system is almost
infallible. Occasionally, fish will overcook, so it's wise
to check it shortly before its time is up, using the two
methods listed below.
Opacity. When fish is done, it changes
from translucent to opaque. Insert a thin knife into the
thickest part of the fish, and look. The flesh should also
be moist and shiny. Opacity is the most accurate measure of
doneness.
The flake test. Virtually every cookbook
ever written says to cook fish "until done, or until it
flakes easily with a fork." This is helpful if you have
ever seen a fish actually "flake," useless if you haven't.
Most people visualize the fish disintegrating into chips
the size of soap flakes-and, if cooked long enough, it will
oblige. Unfortunately, at that point it's inedible.
When fish is cooked, it doesn't so much flake as chunk, or
break apart. Insert a fork into the thickest part—it
should enter easily, with little resistance—and twist
gently; the fish should crack apart. Although the best
known of the three, the flake test is the least reliable.
By the time some varieties flake—especially solid,
meaty ones like salmon and tuna—they're overdone.
Once you've eaten well-cooked fish, you'll know it when you
see it, touch it and taste it. But if, like many people,
you've never eaten it any way but overcooked, your primary
problem will be convincing yourself that it really is done
when it meets the three tests. Until all this is second
nature, you might try these rules of thumb: If the fish
looks halfraw, stay alert; it's almost ready. If you can't
decide whether it's done, it is. If you're absolutely
certain it's fully cooked, call the cat. Everyone else will
be eating hamburger.
The Four Techniques
Baking. Baking is one of the simplest,
easiest and safest ways to cook fish. Preheat the oven to
450°F and wipe the fish with paper towels. Oil a baking
pan, or coat it with nonstick spray. Place the fish in the
pan, and brush with a mixture of equal parts lemon juice
and melted butter. Bake 10 minutes per inch, basting twice
and checking for doneness 1 or 2 minutes earlier.
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