TOOTHSOME TOFU PIES

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Blending Techniques

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Although the recipes given in this article call for the use of a food processor, the pies can be made using a blender, an electric mixer, or even a rotary beater. For crumb or nut crusts, you'll probably want to chop the nuts or graham crackers separately before combining all the dry ingredients in a bowl (with the favor extracts, honey, and such) and mixing the dough with a wooden spoon.

Blenders and electric mixers generally don't handle tofu well unless some liquid is added. When using a standard home blender, mash the tofu before mixing it . . . and work with no more than half a pound at once. A good rule of thumb for the recipes given here is to blend a third of the ingredients at a time. Put the honey in first and gradually add the fruit and tofu. Then combine the separate blender batches in a bowl and add any flavor extracts. Because you'll have less liquid left to boil the agar in, you'll need to shorten the agar's cooling time to 1 to 2 minutes. Then, with the mixer running, slowly pour the agar liquid into the tofu in a steady stream and proceed as directed in the recipe. In no case should you allow the agar to set before blending it into the tofu.

About Agar

Also called agar-agar or Ceylon moss, this natural seaweed extract is used in the same way as gelatin. However, agar is superior to the more common gelling agent in several respects. Agar doesn't require the usual combination of hot and cold water to set up: Instead, it hardens at 85°F, gelling foods at room temperature. And because agar will hold its form at up to 180°F, it's ideal for use in dishes stored at room temperature. For this reason, desserts made with agar are especially suited for summer potluck outings, because they won't melt before your eyes.

There are several different types of agar on the market: stick agar (or kanten), flakes, strips, and powdered agar. By far the easiest to use is the powdered form. Like the stick agar, the pulverized product is extremely reliable, and—unlike kanten—it doesn't require a soaking period before it can be used. As for the other choices, agar strips are difficult to deal with because they're hard to measure in small quantities . . . and the flakes don't always yield consistent results.

Agar is generally available at natural foods stores and co-ops.

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