TOOTHSOME TOFU PIES

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by Paula Szilard

At a time when almost everyone seems to be borrowing ideas from Japan, is it possible that the people of that nation could learn something from us? You bet it is! For centuries, you see, the Japanese (and other Orientals) have prepared tofu—the inexpensive soybean food that's low in calories and saturated fats, free of cholesterol, rich in vitamins and minerals, and high in protein—in essentially the same ways. Without a doubt, many of those traditional recipes are good tasting as well as nutritious . . . but they're not the last word on tofu cuisine. In less than a decade, Americans have adapted tofu to the Western palate . . . and Occidental cooks have really pioneered the development of a number of tofu desserts. The creations include a mouth-watering array of pies, cheesecakes, puddings, cakes, cookies, delicate pastries, and even ice creams!

Tofu—which can range from a soft, pudding-like consistency to one that resembles pressed cheese—lends itself especially well to pies of all descriptions. Five of my favorites are presented here, each of which calls for a baked crumb or nut crust and an unbaked filling. I whip up the fillings in my food processor (though you could use a blender or a mixer . . . see the sidebar on blending techniques) and quickly gel them, using powdered agar, another oriental import (you'll find more information about agar in an accompanying sidebar). And as for the taste of these delectable concoctions . . . well, you'll just have to find out for yourself. Try one or two of these recipes . . . and celebrate the Western culinary imagination.

What better way is there to herald summer than with a cool, fruit-laden dessert? To make the crust for this pie, break the graham crackers into small pieces and add them to the work bowl of your food processor, along with the other dry ingredients. Process the mixture until the crackers are finely ground, then—with the machine still running—add the oil and honey. Press the mixed "dough" into a wellgreased 9-1/2" pie pan, coating first the sides and then the bottom, and bake the shell in a preheated 375°F oven for about 8 minutes, or until the edges turn slightly brown.

While the crust is baking and cooling, you can put together the pie's filling. First, cook the dried apricots in 1-1/2 cups of water until they're soft but not mushy. Take out the nine most attractive pieces to save for decorating the top of the pie. Now, continue simmering the remaining halves until all the water is taken up. Next, process the fruit until it's smooth, then blend in the tofu and vanilla extract. (If your machine has a small work bowl, you'll need to mix the tofu in two batches and then use an electric or rotary beater to combine them.) After setting the fruitladen pudding aside, pour the remaining cup of water and the honey into a small saucepan, mix them well, and then sprinkle the powdered agar over the sweet liquid. Let the gelling agent soften for a minute, bring the mixture to a rolling boil, and cook it for 30 seconds. When the time's up, remove the agar liquid from the heat and allow it to cool for 5 to 8 minutes. Then—with the food processor running—slowly pour the agar blend into the tofu-apricot pudding, and mix the ingredients for a few seconds. Let the filling set up in the refrigerator for 15 to 20 minutes, then briefly process it again until it's soft and creamy. Pour the filling into the cooled pie shell and chill the dessert until it's firm.

While the pie is setting up, rescue those set-aside apricot halves and—in a small saucepan—combine them with a few drops of almond extract and a tablespoon each of honey and water. (You may substitute 1 tablespoon of white wine, or the same measure of peach or apricot brandy, for the almond extract and water.) Garnish the pie with the glazed apricots and place a few mint leaves alongside the fruit for added color. This mouth-watering dessert tastes every bit as good as it looks!

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