September/October 1983
by Paulette Rader
The phrase "like Grandma used to make" has become an advertising cliche'. But many folks do swear that dinner at their grandparents' house was (and is!) a special treat. And one of the reasons for that celebrated tastiness may be that your grandmother ruled the kitchen with an iron pan! Years ago, cast-iron cookware was generally considered the best available ... and many of today's great chefs, although they usually have a "mixed bag" of cooking utensils and pans, still agree that cast-iron ware is, in a number of ways, second to none.
PROS AND CONS
The foremost virtue of cast-iron cookware may be its durability. It lasts! Many a skillet and dutch oven has been tended with loving care by one generation of cooks after another. Furthermore, cast iron is an efficient heat conductor, and thus saves time and energy in the kitchen. And it's even healthful: Why, just one meal a day prepared in these fine black pans will provide your body with all of the iron it needs.
Unfortunately, there are disadvantages to this traditional cookware, as well. For one thing, it's heavy ... and likely to be difficult for certain folks to lift, especially those individuals with arthritis or fragile hands and wrists. Then too, if you're the type of cook who piles dirty pots and pans in the sink while you dine, or if washing dishes always seems to be at the bottom of your priorities list, cast-iron cookware probably isn't for you. In order to keep the pots in top condition, you see, you must rinse them out with hot water and a sponge as soon as they are cool enough to be touched. If you feel that taking several minutes every week or two to coat your cookware with oil would be an unreasonable bother, you'd most likely be better off buying modern nonstick pans instead (but expect them to serve only as dog dishes 20 years from now).
If you'd like to start a family kitchen legacy, however, cast iron is an excellent choice. And, as for the care that's involved, good tools or furnishings of any kind require at least a bit of help if they're to remain in top condition. Your fine, old black kettle can be no less an heirloom than a well-made lamp or chair ... and it can be used and appreciated for many years to come.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR AND HOW TO BUY
Perhaps the best way to obtain your first castiron skillet or griddle is to turn to your own family. Just pass the word along the grapevine that you'd love to have an old iron pot or pan, and you may well find that a favorite aunt would be delighted to give you one she no longer needs.
Then again, most department stores carry cast iron, but often at greatly inflated prices. So if you plan to purchase the cookware, you might do better if you check out hardware stores, camping supply outlets, and mail-order companies. But since-as a general rule-the older the pan, the better the quality, used ironware may be your best choice. Estate sales, yard sales, and flea markets are possible sources ... but be careful: Such outlets rarely offer a guarantee of any kind, so it'll be up to you to be sure you're buying a quality product.
A good cast-iron utensil is heavy and is made all in one piece. The bottom and sides should meet smoothly, without a welded seam, and curve into one another.
Now what about the design? Handles and lid knobs should be made of iron rather than wood. Although wooden handles are decorative and won't get as hot as will their metal counterparts, they aren't ovenproof or indestructible. After all, there are many dishes that can be prepared in advance on top of the stove ... and if your cookware is totally cast iron, you can use the same pan for reheating (either in a slow oven or on the hearth).
New ironware will be coated inside and out with a protective oily substance, and will feel sticky to the touch. Old utensils, on the other hand, should be black inside and out. If the inner surfaces are smooth, with a slight dry sheen, you'll know the pan has been well seasoned through frequent use and good care.