SOFT PRETZELS

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To make the traditional design, form an oval shape with the "rope", crossing one long end first over and then under the other (see photo). Then bring the left end down to an imaginary seven o'clock position on the oval, and the right end to five o'clock. Press these tips down firmly so they won't come loose while cooking. After you've twisted all of the first lump of dough into the proper shapes, do the same with the second one (again, it will be best to store the uncooked pretzels under a clean cloth).

Now, in a large pot, bring 4 cups of water, to which 4 teaspoons of baking soda has been added, to a rapid boil. Then gently place two or three pretzels into it, let them cook for a minute (or until they float), lift them out, and drain them. After they've all been cooked and drained, place them on a greased baking sheet, brush them with beaten egg, and sprinkle on some coarse salt (sea salt can, of course, be substituted here). Let the pretzels bake in a hot oven (450°F) for 12 to 15 minutes, or until they're golden brown. Serve them warm (perhaps with some piquant mustard or cream cheese), but do let them cool a bit ... or your eager eaters could end up with burned fingers and tongues.

You might also want to try making soft pretzels from whole wheat flour. If so, prepare your yeast mixture from 1/2 tablespoon of dry yeast, I teaspoon of honey, and 1-1/2 cups of warm water. As soon as the mix bubbles, add 4 to 4-1/2 cups of whole wheat flour (leave out all the other ingredients). Knead this together and then follow the same steps as in the first recipe, but bake the twists at 475°F for 8-10 minutes without boiling them. And of course, your pretzels don't have to be coated with salt. My family has enjoyed them with sesame seeds or flavored frostings in place of' the traditional seasoning.

Although I've found it hard to make more "little rewards" than my brood can promptly consume, you might be able to cook up a big enough batch to have extras. If so, you'll be pleased to find that the baked pretzels freeze nicely . . . and if taken straight from the freezer and put in a 200°F oven for a few minutes, they'll taste as fresh and chewy as if they'd been prepared that day.

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