STUFFED PIEROGI

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Now, fill a large kettle with water and place it on high heat. Once the liquid starts to boil frantically, drop the pierogi—a few at a time—into the container. Then, when the little turnovers float to the top (it'll take one or two minutes), they'll be done. Remove each one with a slotted spoon and set it aside to drain in a colander or on a towel.

When all of the dumplings are cooked, melt half a cup of butter in a large, heavy frying pan and sauce the pastries until they're piping hot. The finished pierogi can then be adorned with sour cream or yogurt . . . or topped with browned bread crumbs for an interesting contrast in textures.

Pierogi can be stored in the refrigerator for four or five days or frozen for up to six months. If you do decide to freeze the turnovers, though, be sure to remove them from the boiling water and drain them on a terry (or linen) towel until they're thoroughly dry. Then package and freeze the little pieces. When you're ready to serve the stored delicacies, boil them again until they float, and finish up with the same butter bath and toppings already described.

Once you've learned how to make these dumplings, you'll find that pierogi are at home almost anywhere on a menu. So give these versatile little turnovers a chance. Who knows . . . instead of grimly dishing out a casserole and daring your diners not to finish it, you may wind up worrying whether you're going to have enough pierogi for seconds!

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