TRY QUINCE JAM

A reader reminds us of a treat our grandmothers may have made, including recipes.

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A reader reminds us of a treat our grandmas might have made.

by Marilyn H. Hoijer

In my section of California (and throughout Zones 5 through 8 on the USDA's plant hardiness map, which can be found on page 180 of this issue), anybody who takes a summer drive down country roads may see a number of large bushes that will be loaded—come harvest time—with attractive, apple-sized, golden fruit. Those delicious-looking globes are quinces (Cydonia oblonga) and—while they're not used for much more than an occasional treat for livestock nowadays—the puckery-when-raw fruits were once the main ingredient in a mouthwatering array of early American pies, marmalades, jellies, and jams.

If you can stake out an available quince bush while you're on an outing this summer, that single shrub once its fruit ripens—will probably provide you with all the fixings you'll need. Better yet—since most people consider the fruits inedible—you shouldn't have any trouble obtaining permission to pick them. Why not get yourself a bucketful (about 10 pounds), gather together some honey, jars and paraffin . . . and give my grandmother's quince jam recipe a try!

First scrub each fruit to remove its fuzzy coating, but don't peel off its skin. Then quarter the washed quinces and push out their seeds without trying to remove the cores. Put the quince wedges in a large pan and add enough water to cover the slices by about half an inch.

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