SUMMERTIME IS HOMEMADE ICE CREAM TIME

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PREPARING TO FREEZE

Once you've chosen your freezer and brought it home, your next step should be to wash the new machine. Since the cream and milk used in making a frozen dessert can breed bacteria rapidly, hygiene has to be of primary concern to any backyard ice cream chef. Before each use you should thoroughly wash the freezer can, lid, and dasher in hot, soapy water. Rinse the parts well and let them air dry, then cool them-in your 'fridge-for about 30 minutes ... because the cream will freeze much faster in a cold container.

Next, pour the chilled mixture-made from either your favorite recipe or one of the formulas that accompany this article-into the can . . . making sure that the vessel is no more than 2/3 full. (You must allow some room for expansion, as air seeps into the substance while it's freezing.) Balance the container in position in the bottom of the .tub, secure the dasher inside the can, and put the lid in place.

PACKING IT IN

At this point, the device is ready to be filled with its freezing agents . . . crushed ice and rock salt. You'll want to use ice that's crushed as fine as possible, since smaller pieces will melt more evenly ... producing a stable freezing process and giving your end product a smoother texture. Start by distributing ice all around the bottom of the tub-to a depth of about two inches-- and follow that with a layer of rock salt- (The coarse substance is generally available in supermarkets, but if you can't find it-or if you run short during the freezing operation-regular table salt is an acceptable, though costly, substitute.)

The amount of salt you use in your freezer will be the main factor in determining the consistency of the ice cream you make. Too little salt-which will tend to slow up the freezing time and force you to crank longerwill produce a grainy end product ... while too much salt-which will speed up the freezing process-will give the ice cream a spongy, coarse texture. So, when packing in the layers of ice and salt, you should always stick to the proportion of 4 parts ice to 1 part salt (or one cup of ice to 114 cup of salt). You'll find that such a combination produces a smooth, fluffy dessert every time.

Continue alternating layers of ice and salt until the can is totally surrounded (but not covered). Then attach the gear drive and crank to the lid of the can . . . and start the of machine turning! As you rotate the handle, the can revolves inside the tub . . . while the action of the salt melting the ice gradually freezes the cream mixture. Make sure that the small hole in the side of the bucket remains unclogged throughout the procedure, so that the brine solution can drain off freely. And-as the ice continues to melt-you'll need to add more layers of ice and salt ... always maintaining the 4-to-1 ratio.

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