Preparatory Techniques

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SQUEEZING

This process results in a mashed tofu that is slightly cohesive and has a texture resembling that of cottage cheese.

Place drained, parboiled, or pressed tofu at the center of a large dry dish towel and gather its corners to form a sack. Or use a tofu pressing sack if available. ( EDITOR'S NOTE: see MOTHER NO. 41, page41 .) Twist sack closed, then squeeze tofu firmly, kneading it for 2 or 3 minutes to expel as much water as possible (below). Squeeze lightly enough so that no tofu penetrates the sack. Empty the squeezed tofu into a mixing bowl.

SCRAMBLING

This technique causes a further separation of tofu curds and liquid whey resulting in a texture similar to that produced by squeezing, but one which is slightly firmer and more crumbly.

Place tofu in an unheated skillet. Using a (wooden) spatula, break tofu into small pieces. Now cook over medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring constantly and breaking tofu into smaller and smaller pieces until whey separates from curds. Pour contents of skillet into a fine-mesh strainer. Allow curds to drain for about 15 seconds if a soft consistency is desired, or for about 3 minutes for a firmer consistency. Spread curds on a large plate and allow to cool to room temperature.

RESHAPING

This process yields a tofu cake having a very firm and cohesive consistency similar to that of natural cheese or processed ham. Called oshi-dofu, or "Pressed Tofu", in Japan, it is used in recipes calling for pieces the size of French-fried potatoes which hold their shape during cooking or tossing.

The first method given below takes about twice as long as the second, but yields a tofu that retains more of its natural flavor and texture. The addition of salt that it calls for prevents the tofu from developing a somewhat elastic, web-like structure while also seasoning it. The second method yields a firmer structure that holds together better during sautéing. The tofu undergoes a slight loss in flavor that is not very noticeable if served with a well-seasoned sauce in the typical Chinese style.

FIRM SEASONED TOFU: Combine 24 ounces tofu and 1 teaspoon salt in saucepan; mix well. Stirring constantly, cook over medium heat for about 4 minutes or until tofu begins to boil vigorously. Pour the tofu into a cloth-lined colander in the sink and allow to drain for several minutes. Transfer the cloth onto a cutting board and carefully fold the edges of the cloth over the tofu. Shape the tofu into a cake about 5 inches square and 1 inch thick. Place a pan filled with 3 or 4 quarts of water on top of the cloth (below) and press for 1 to 2 hours in a cool place. Unwrap and cut as directed . . . or re-wrap in a dry towel and refrigerate for later use.

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