Preparatory Techniques

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Place the tofu in a 1- or 2-quart flat-bottomed container. Cover well and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours or, for a firmer texture, overnight. If set on a small colander or folded towel placed into the container beforehand, the tofu will drain even more thoroughly. If two cakes are stacked one on top of the other, the one on the bottom will be almost as firm as if it were pressed (see below). If the tofu was purchased in a sealed plastic tub, prick a tiny hole in bottom of tub, drain out any water, and place tofu and tub in container as described above.

PRESSING

When pressing tofu, it is important to preserve the form and structure of the cake so that it may later be cut into thin slices. Tofu is fully pressed when it can be picked up and held vertically in the air without crumbling. Pressing time may be varied to suit the dish being prepared: light pressing preserves the tofu's softness for use in tossed salads, while lengthy pressing gives firmer, stronger tofu for use in deep-frying.

Because of its delicate texture and unique structure (which holds water in millions of tiny "cells"), kinugoshi is almost never pressed. Doufu (Chinese-style firm tofu) has a cohesive structure and low water content and may be used without further pressing in any recipe calling for pressed tofu. Pat its surface dry with a cloth before use.

TOWEL AND FRIDGE METHOD: Wrap the tofu firmly in a small terry-cloth or cotton towel folded into fourths (facing), and set on a plate in a refrigerator for 1-1/2 to 2 hours or overnight. To decrease the pressing time, drain the tofu beforehand, place a 2- or 3-pound weight on top of the tofu, and replace the damp towel with a dry one after about 30 minutes. Or cut the cake horizontally into halves before pressing and place in the towel as illustrated below.

SLANTING PRESS METHOD: Wrap the tofu in a towel or bamboo mat (sudare)—or sandwich the tofu between bamboo mats—and place on a cutting board, tray, or large plate next to the sink. Raise the far end of the board several inches. Set a 2- to 4-pound weight on the tofu and let stand for 30 to 60 minutes (below).

SLICED TOFU METHOD: Cut the tofu crosswise into 1/2- to 3/4-inch-thick slices and arrange on two towels placed on a raised cutting board (below). Cover the slices with a double layer of towels and pat lightly to ensure even contact. Allow to stand for 30 to 60 minutes. This method is commonly used when preparing tofu for deep-frying. For faster results, top with a cutting board and 5-pound weight and change the towels after 10-minute intervals.

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