The following procedures are used regularly in cooking with
tofu. Try to master them from the outset, since each gives
the tofu a unique consistency and texture. The eight
techniques listed below are in order of the amount of water
each allows to remain in the tofu. Thus parboiling, the
first technique, expels very little water, while crumbling
rids the tofu of more than 65 percent of its moisture,
leaving it very firm and containing more than 20 percent
protein. The chart with this sidebar shows the effect of
each technique on the weight, protein, and moisture content
of a 12-ounce cake of tofu originally containing 7.8
percent protein and 84.9 percent water.
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When fresh tofu is mashed or blended, 9 ounces yield 1 cup,
and 12 ounces yield approximately 1-1/2 cups.
PARBOILING
This technique is used with both regular tofu and
kinugoshi (a smooth-textured tofu made from thick
soymilk) for at least four different purposes: [1] to warm
the tofu before serving it topped with hot sauces, [2] to
freshen stored tofu that shows signs of spoiling, [3] to
make the tofu slightly firmer so that when simmered in
seasoned broths it absorbs flavors without diluting the
cooking medium, [4] to impart to the tofu a slight
cohesiveness desired when preparing aemono
(Japanese-style tofu salads).
The addition of a small amount of salt to the water
seasons the tofu slightly, imparts to it a somewhat firmer
texture, and makes possible longer parboiling without the
tofu developing an undesirably porous structure.
Because parboiling causes a slight loss in some of the
tofu's delicate flavors, it should be used only when
necessary.
REGULAR PARBOILING: Bring 1 quart water to a boil in a
saucepan. Reduce heat to low and drop in tofu. Cover and
heat for 2 to 3 minutes, or until tofu is well warmed. (For
a firmer texture, cut tofu into 4 equal pieces before
parboiling.) Lift out finished pieces with a slotted spoon.
SALTED WATER METHOD: Bring 2 cups water to a boil in a
saucepan. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt, drop in (uncut) 12-ounce
cake of tofu, and return to the boil. Remove pan from heat
and allow to stand for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove tofu,
discarding water.
DRAINING
Draining or storing tofu out of water (for no more than 12
hours) gives it a fairly firm texture and also helps
preserve its flavor, since its subtle natural sweetness is
lost quite easily in water. A 12-ounce cake of tofu drained
for 8 hours will lose moisture equal to about 17 percent of
its weight. The protein content of the final 10-ounce cake
thereby increases from 7.8 to about 8.5 percent.
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