How to Eat for Less: The Secrets of Organ Meat Cookery
(Page 6 of 7)
May/June 1976
By Lucille Sivley
SLICED COLD HEART
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Leftovers—stuffing and all—from the above recipe can be kept in the refrigerator for a week. There isn't even any need to reheat the meat for a meal. Instead, try slicing it thin and eating it with a tossed salad or on a bun with pickles. Cold heart is a treat no matter how you serve it.
HOW SWEET IT IS
The term "sweetbreads" refers both to the thymus and (sometimes) the pancreas glands of a calf or yearling beef. Of the two, the thymus—which looks rather like a large, white, membrane-coated butterfly—has the more delicate taste and texture. The pancreas (a lumpy, white organ), however, is also good to eat.
Unfortunately, though, if heart has recently become easier to buy . . . only the opposite is true of sweetbreads (at least here in the Midwest). According to a meat wholesaler who recently confided in me, this is because sausage manufacturers are now buying all of these organs that they can get. This may well be true and, at the very least, it explains the steep rise in sweetbread prices. The meats are still so tasty, however, that—high price or no—I want to give you my recipes for them.
Pancreas and thymus are both highly perishable and, for that reason, must be boiled the same day they're bought. Once cooked, they'll keep for a couple of days in the refrigerator.
Start all sweetbread recipes by rinsing the organs under running water. Then place them in a pan and cover them with water that contains a teaspoon of salt and a tablespoon of lemon juice for each quart of the liquid. Bring the water to a boil and let the sweetbreads cook for 25 minutes. Then discard the liquid and allow the meats to cool. When you can comfortably handle them, pull the outer membranes from the organs . . . and the meats will then be ready to use.
PAN-FRIED SWEETBREADS
1 pound sweetbreads, cooked and sliced flour
4 tablespoons of margarine salt and pepper to taste
Slice the "breads" lengthwise and roll them in flour. Then melt the margarine in a heavy skillet and fry the meats until they're golden brown on both sides (about ten minutes). Season with salt and pepper and serve with fresh, crusty bread and your favorite juice. The recipe serves four and makes a really different change-of-pace breakfast!
SWEETBREADS IN SHERRY SAUCE
2 tablespoons of margarine
2 tablespoons of cornstarch
1/2 cup of water 3/4 cup of fresh milk
1/2 teaspoon of salt a dash of white pepper
1 pound of sweetbreads, cooked and sliced
2 tablespoons of medium-dry sherry
Melt the margarine in a pan, add the cornstarch, combine the two ingredients into a paste. Then pour in the water and milk and stir constantly until the mixture becomes thick and bubbly. Add the salt and pepper and cook gently for two minutes. Place the sweetbreads in the sauce at this time and cook them until they've warmed through (approximately five to ten minutes). Finally, pour in the sherry, stir, and serve the combination with toast.
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