How to Eat for Less: The Secrets of Organ Meat Cookery
(Page 3 of 7)
May/June 1976
By Lucille Sivley
KIDNEY RAGOUT WITH RED WINE
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3 tablespoons of margarine
1 cup of Spanish onion, coarsely chopped
2 beef kidneys, sliced
1-1/2 cups water
1 large carrot, shredded
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup mushrooms, sliced
1 tablespoon of shallot or onion, finely minced
3/4 teaspoon of dried parsley
1/8 teaspoon of thyme
3 tablespoons of Burgundy or other red wine
Melt two tablespoons of the margarine in a heavy pan and brown the onion and slices of kidney. Add the water, lower the heat, and simmer for an hour. Then stir in the shredded carrot and the salt and simmer for an additional thirty minutes. Next melt the third tablespoon of margarine in a small skillet and quickly brown the mushrooms and shallot. Add them to the kidney mixture, stir well, and simmer for ten minutes. Crush the dried parsley by rubbing it in your hands and then sprinkle it and the thyme over the contents of the heavy pan. Simmer the mixture for another five minutes to develop its flavor . . . then add the wine, stir, and serve immediately with rice. Délicieux!
THE UNDERRATED TONGUE
Beef tongues are, in my experience, almost as readily available as kidneys. If your market doesn't ordinarily carry them, it should be able to special-order a tongue for you. And if it won't, try the stores in a Spanish-speaking neighborhood (if you live in or near a big city).
Boiled and peeled, tongue is one of the most delicious and versatile meats you can eat. Just take care (as you would with any cut of beef) to buy freshness. . . which is to say a tongue that is not slimy, bruised, or wilted. Look for one that weighs about three pounds, has a clean and pinkish-gray color, and is firm to the touch.
BASIC BOILED TONGUE
I start all my recipes for this meat with a good boil. Scrub the organ you've bought under cold running water and place it in a large, heavy pan. Cover with water and add two tablespoons of lemon juice, one teaspoon of salt, and six whole peppercorns. Then bring the water to a boil and simmer for three hours, or until the thickest part of the tongue can be pierced easily with a fork. (It's a good idea to check the level of the water occasionally as the meat cooks. You should also turn the tongue once or twice so that it will be evenly done when you remove it from the stove.)
Let the cooked tongue sit in its pan until the meat is cool enough to handle. Then discard the liquid and pull the fat, tendons, and bone away from the organ's root. Finally—starting at the base and working toward the tip—strip the skin from the entire tongue, just as if you were peeling an orange. The remaining meat is then ready to eat "as is" or it can be served in a number of other ways. Here are just a few:
WHOLE PRESSED TONGUE
Curl up the warm, cooked tongue and squeeze it into a bowl that is about six inches in diameter and three inches deep. Then put a tight-fitting lid—or a weighted plate—on top of the container and leave it overnight in the refrigerator. On the following day you'll be able to unmold the soft meat like jello. (It'll keep its new shape and can be sliced as needed.) You'll find that you've just created a round of the finest possible "luncheon meat" . . . without the bitterness and other undesirable side effects of the preservatives found in commercial cold cuts.
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