The Penny-Pinching Epicures Soup Kettle

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CABBAGE SOUP

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Make either chicken foot soup or the basic chicken broth. Take out the bones. Put in a cupful of chopped cabbage, peeled thinly sliced broccoli stems, chopped mustard greens, kale or a combination of any of these. Cook on medium heat 10 minutes, or until the greens are tender.

When I've already used all the leek or green onion tops in some brave potage or green salad, when the weather turns hot and when something colorful and spicy is coming up later in the meal . . . then I think of vichyssoise. Perhaps its elegance is mostly bravado—a pale potato soup, dressing up and playing Empress—but it does slide coolly down a parched throat. It's good hot, too.

VICHYSSOISE

2 tablespoons safflower oil
3 leeks, white part only, minced
1 medium-size white onion, minced
3 large potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
4 cups clear, strained chicken broth
1-1/2 cups cream, or cream alternate* (directions follow)
Salt and pepper to taste
Sprinkle of mace or nutmeg
About 1 tablespoon chopped chives

Sauté and stir the leeks and onions in the oil for three minutes. Add the potatoes and broth, cover and simmer till tender (about 15 minutes). Puree with eggbeater or blender. Stir in cream or cream alternate, salt and pepper.

Garnish each bowlful with a sprinkling of mace or nutmeg and/or a few pinches of chopped chives.

Vichyssoise is good hot but, to be deliciously authentic, should be served cold. Really chill it . . . one to three hours in the refrigerator or a few minutes in the freezer.

A skillful, penny-pinching epicure can bless several meals with one chicken. First meal: fried drumsticks, thighs and wings; second meal: the precooked breasts in chicken pie, in a salad, with curried rice or creamed on buttermilk biscuits; third: a potage made with stock from bones of the above pieces plus neck and back; fourth: Creme Caroline, a soup made with a stock from the giblets and any chicken morsels left.

CREME CAROLINE

2 shallots or white parts of 3 or 4 green onions (use the green tops in a salad to go with the soup)
2 cups stock made of chicken gizzard and heart, neck & back simmered with celery, onion, bay leaf, tarragon, salt & pepper
Chopped gizzards and hearts plus meat from neck and back (1/2 to 1 cup of meat altogether)
1 teaspoon additional tarragon leaves
1 cup coffee cream

Assemble all the ingredients except the cream in a heavy, covered kettle. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low and simmer for 20 minutes. Stir in the cream slowly so it won't curdle. Serve at once, to two people.

TURNIP CHOWDER

2 tablespoons chicken fat or oil
1 small onion, diced
2 small white turnips, diced
1 medium-size potato, peeled and diced
2 cups chicken stock, or giblet stock as in Creme Caroline
2 cups milk
salt to taste

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