The Penny-Pinching Epicures Soup Kettle

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Lightly sauté the onion or the leek in the melted fat or oil till just transparent. Add the other vegetables, meat drippings, water and seasonings. Cover and cook on low heat for 20 minutes. Add the milk and reheat just to steaming. Garnish with chopped, fresh parsley. Serves four to six.

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By the way, Virginia, there really is a chicken foot soup. It doesn't have a great deal of flavor but it is protein and calcium-rich. On its own it's a light, little first-course broth and it can become stock for borsch, cabbage soup, turnip chowder or even the famous vichyssoise.

CHICKEN FOOT SOUP

2 pairs of chicken feet
1 stalk of celery with leaves, chopped
1 whole leek, sliced vertically, cleaned and chopped
1 bay leaf
1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon
1/2 teaspoon dried basil
1 teaspoon salt
3 black peppercorns
1 tablespoon white wine or apple vinegar
2 to 3 cups water

Cover the washed chicken feet with boiling water, then take them out one by one; clip off their nails, peel away the skin and put them back into the liquid. Add the vegetables and more water to cover all, bring to a rapid boil, reduce heat and simmer in covered pot for 1-1/2 hours. Serves two or three.

For most purposes, just remove what's left of the feet when the soup is done . . . but for vichyssoise, strain the broth. For a soup or broth with more color and flavor, include the chicken's back and wing tips. For a more filling dish, add one-quarter cup of whole barley, rye grits or brown rice.

The flavor of this soup can also be improved by adding the juice of half a lemon after cooking, at serving time. Garnish with a thin lemon slice in each bowl.

BASIC CHICKEN BROTH

Our Pilgrim foremothers took chicken broth to sick people, fed it to babies and willed it to us. Full of assorted, easily digested proteins, vitamins and minerals it goes to work the moment it enters the body to nourish it, warm the heart, stimulate a healthy appetite and satisfy a weak one.

Put chicken bones, onion and/or leek pieces, about one cup chopped celery with tops, one diced carrot, 1/2 teaspoon each of dried basil, marjoram and tarragon, a teaspoon of salt, three peppercorns, four cups of water and one tablespoon of white wine or apple vinegar into a pot. Cover the container and bring its contents to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer 1-1/2 hours. Strain the broth through cheesecloth or a fine-mesh strainer. Makes about four cups. For stock, remove the bones, retain the meat and vegetables.

CHICKEN CONSOMMÈ

Chill strained broth. Skim off the fat and use it to make gravy. Reheat the broth and serve in bowls with a basket of toast or crackers and thin slices of lemon rafting little sprigs of fresh parsley.

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