Country Lore: Stomp Out Cabbage Maggots

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One little wrinkle here - do not cultivate the crust because you will break up the barrier. If you need to weed, do so by burying the weeds or hand pulling. It seems that every couple of years somebody around here, myself included, forgets this in the rush of spring work and we relearn a lesson on some row we rushed through.

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Effectiveness: Side by side, 200-foot rows with about 130 early cabbages planted prior to the main insect hatch will suffer 50 to 90 percent losses in unmanaged rows and rarely more than 2 or 3 percent loss in the managed row. Frank, this is not much different than when I used chemical drenches in the past. We live in canola country and the maggot flies are everywhere. Loss rates in the other cole crops are essentially zero, except for cauliflower. This system does not work for cauliflower. Most of the time, most of the cauliflower plants will bolt. It does not work on sandy soils because they will not compress well.

We are a small market garden. At one time we were up to five acres, but now are in semi-retirement. I am currently growing only about half that acreage and selling exclusively at the Drayton Valley farmers market, not too far from us. You would not believe the lineups.

Arthur Dear
Strawberry Creek Gardens
Thorsby, Alberta
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Comments

  • Alan Sowter 4/30/2009 2:22:26 PM

    We have trouble with cabbage root fly (delia brassicae) in Britain. Here you can buy brassica collers or make them yourself. I cut 6 inch squares of rubber backed carpet and punch a 1/2 inch hole in the centre. Then cut a slit from one edge to the centre hole. Plant your cabbage plant firmly and place the collar round the stem with the rubber backing upmost. The root fly will not lay eggs on the hard rubber backing. The carpet can be removed at the end of the season and reused.

    Hope this is of interest.

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