Easy Plant Propagation

(Page 4 of 4)

April/May 2008
By Barbara Pleasant 
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Digging and dividing does destroy roots, so it’s good to relieve divided plants of at least half of their leaves and stems as you replant them — and to keep them well-watered for about a month after transplanting. As soon as new roots form, the plants should produce a nice flush of healthy new foliage.

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More Propagation Options

  • When pruning grapes in early spring, set aside 12- to 14-inch long sections of stem that have three or more nodes. Being careful to keep them right side up, push the ends that grew closest to the parent plant 6 inches deep in fertile, well-drained soil, and keep them moist. Those that take will be well rooted and ready to train or move by midsummer.
  • spring, just as roses leaf out, take 6-inch-long cuttings from the tips of your favorites, remove the leaves from the bottom halves, and stick them 3 inches deep in a moist, fertile spot. Cover with quart canning jars for three to four weeks. You will know which cuttings are successful when they show new growth.
  • You can root cuttings while they are still on the plant using the method called simple layering. Bend down a branch, and nick or scratch the stem where it touches the ground. Bury the “distressed” stem section beneath 2 inches of moist soil. If necessary, use a stone or U-shaped wire pin to hold the stem in place. Wait until new roots emerge to sever the cutting from the parent plant. This method works great with thyme, rosemary and other stiff-stemmed herbs, as well as raspberries, forsythia and most perennial vines.

Rooting in Willow Water

When you need to root challenging plants, you can borrow the natural rooting hormones found in willows, black locust and other fast-rooting plants. Set a handful of slender peeled willow or black locust branches to steep in a deep container of warm water overnight so the hormones can seep out into the water. Then let your new cuttings soak in the water overnight before setting them to root in containers. 

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