Garden & Yard: Wonderful Winter Squash

(Page 3 of 7)

August/September 2005
 
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When you let pollinating insects in, some pests will join them, but by then the plants will be strong enough to produce well, despite pesky insects.

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This row cover protection works especially well with bush-type cultivars, which are not strictly bushy. Molly Jahn, professor of plant breeding at Cornell University, whose team developed two outstanding C. pepo “bush” varieties — ‘Sweet REBA’ and ‘PMR Bush Delicata’ — says the ideal squash starts out bushy, so young plants can be grown under row covers or closely watched for pests, and then has a late adolescent growth spurt when the vines stretch out, fill in and suppress weeds. “You get higher yields per area, especially if you go through and cultivate to remove weeds after the plants are established,” Jahn says.

Beyond their bush habit, the Cornell varieties show excellent taste and high powdery mildew resistance, which is abbreviated as PMR in a variety name. Powdery mildew looks like a spidery dusting of white powder on squash leaves. It weakens plants and shortens their life spans, which results in fewer, less flavorful fruits that also store poorly. If you frequently see powdery mildew on your squash leaves, switching to a resistant variety will increase productivity and enhance your crop’s flavor and nutritional value.

Mixtas and Moschatas

Squash Baking Secrets

Whether you grow your own winter squashes or buy them at a local farmer’s market, there is no shortage of great ways to cook them. Martin and Atina Diffley cut most winter squash in half, place the halves cut side down in a roasting pan and bake at 375 degrees for an hour. “Be sure to flip them over during the last 10 to 15 minutes to caramelize the sugars,” Martin says. And, if you’re baking one squash, go ahead and bake six more, even if they are not of the same type. “Scoop out the cooked flesh, mix it together and freeze it. You’ll get a blend of flavors, the same way you would if you were making apple cider,” he says.

If you are cooking large squashes, cut them into serving-sized pieces before baking. Renee Shepherd, owner of Renee’s Garden Seeds, suggests roasting big chunks until they are almost done, and then coating them with a little honey and rosemary before returning them to the oven for a final glaze.

You also can cook 1-inch chunks in a pot with a little water for about 20 minutes if you need mashed squash for pies, but don’t overcook cubes that are destined for stews, casseroles or risotto. Ellen Ecker Ogden, co-founder of Cook’s Garden, likes to cook bite-sized chunks of winter squash with braised onions, season the mixture with curry, turmeric and other Indian spices, and then add coconut milk before serving the stew over rice. Rose Marie Nichols McGee, owner of Nichols Garden Nursery, suggests seasoning winter squash and mushroom pilaf or risotto with a little sage and serving it hot with plenty of freshly grated parmesan cheese.

And let’s not forget pumpkin (er, squash) custard pie. With so many fine recipes to choose from, it’s easy to get hooked on winter squash.

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