Sweet Beets

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The practice of eating fully grown beet greens as a cooked vegetable is not nearly as widespread as it was a couple of generations ago, but it still has devotees. Mary Ballon of West Coast Seeds in British Columbia is a true lover of old-fashioned cooked beet greens. "I'd grow a crop of beets just to harvest their greens," she says. "We sometimes pull plants as thinnings when the leaves are about 5 inches tall, and steam the little root and the leaves all at once." Ballon also says steamed beet greens surpass their close relative, Swiss chard, in flavor. For beet varieties with excellent greens for cooking, she recommends 'Early Wonder Tall Top' and 'Lutz Greenleaf,' also called 'Winterkeeper.' (For a list of sources for the varieties mentioned in this story, see "Beet Seed Sources," Page 94.)

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A NEW LOOK FOR AN OLD CROP

Since growers for farmer's markets and natural food stores began selling pre-made salads in the last 10 to 15 years, the search has been on for crops that grow quickly and produce large quantities of succulent, tasty leaves that don't wilt too fast. Young beet leaves turned out to be perfect. They are juicy and tender with a piquant flavor and have great eye-appeal: Their green leaves contrast nicely with their red stems and leaf veins. Best when harvested at no more than 3 1/2 inches long and 2 inches wide, they stand up well to repeated cuts over a long period of time.

Lots of market farmers rely on 'Red Ace' as their main beet variety for salad mixes, as many of the traits that make it popular with commercial growers — bright green leaves with brilliant red stems on upright, vigorous-growing plants — also make it a good choice for home gardeners. Another good choice for home gardeners is 'Pronto,' which sprouts erect tops with good color and makes a beautiful baby-style beet root for a true dual-purpose crop.

If you think you don't like the taste of red beets, you might want to try 'Golden' beets. They make an attractive addition to the table and their flavor can be quite mild and sweet. But, their seed often germinates poorly and seedlings grow slowly, so if you grow 'Golden' beets, you should plant them more thickly and give them a little more attention throughout the season. If you want to add some color to your salad mixes, be sure to try the `Bull's Blood' beet, a British heirloom grown almost exclusively for its intensely maroon-red leaves. While most beet varieties exhibit some red pigmentation in their foliage, 'Bull's Blood' stands out for its unique, solid, blood-red leaf color. Market farmer Eliot Coleman, author of Four Season Harvest, has pioneered the use of cold-hardy crops to produce vegetables in cold frames and walk-in tunnel greenhouses throughout the winter at his Four Season Farm in Harborside, Maine. He has found 'Bull's Blood' to be one of the most cold-hardy of his crops.

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