Sage

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by Barbara Pleasant

Sausage just wouldn't be sausage without sage. Bean soup, sage cheese and Thanksgivings stuffing would suffer incalculably, too. A couple of plants in your- kitchen garden, though, will save you from ever having to do without the comforting, complex, astringent taste of sage.

The common culinary sage, Salvia officinalis is one of the oldest cultivated herbs in the world. In ancient Europe and China, and later in North America, it was used as a seasoning and a tea, and renowned for its association with long life and good health.

The genus name, Salvia, derives from the Latin word " salvere," which means "to heal." The officinalis designa tion signals medicinal characteristics, too. Sage leaves possess antibiotic properties, and sage tea often is recommended as a digestive tonic and a cure-all for colds.

Sage also is rich in vitamins A and C, plus numerous antioxidant compounds. Sore throats, irritated gums and oral sores can be soothed by a gargle or mouthwash of strong sage tea. Because of its potency, though, avoid using sage medicinally if you are pregnant or nursing.

In European folklore, sage is reputed to foster deep sleep, so dried leaves often are added to sweet pillows. In the symbolic language of flowers, which originated in the Middle East and became popular in Europe and the United States during the Victorian Age, stems of sage placed in the tiny aromatic bouquets known as tussie mussies symbolize a long and healthy life.

The best culinary sage is native to southern Europe. Seasoning bread stuffings that accompany poultry or seafood is the most common use of sage, but it can be used in a dry rub, too, mixed with a little salt, pepper and flour, to season roast ed chicken, turkey or pork, and sausage.

Use a light hand with sage, whether fresh or dried, because a little goes a long way. Sage is the herb that makes chicken soup sing. It adds robust flavor to focaccia, homemade bread-sticks or quick breads such as biscuits or scones. Or you can mix it into a soft cheese for a tasty bread spread.

My favorite spinach casserole, and savory risottos and bread puddings (often called stratas) include a hint of sage, and any winter squash or egg dish benefits from a pinch.