The Best Kales

(Page 3 of 6)

August/September 2003
 
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RESULTS OF THE TRIALS

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Recognizing that kale's flavor doesn't really develop until the first fall cold snap, many experienced growers wait until July to sow the seeds in flats for late July transplanting to the field or garden. We had ours planted out by July 10, and by late September, all three plots were producing enough for the testers to start harvesting, assessing and enjoying.

By this time of year, testers could tell why the Scotch Curled types retain such a loyal following. As a cooked vegetable alone or in soups and stews, this kale offers a sweet, full-bodied flavor. Cavagnaro, an independent spirit, stood alone in his disdain for the Scotch Curled kales. "I don't like working with the `'potscrubber' kales in the kitchen," he says. "I like the broader, smoother leaves of the Russian or Napus types." (He is, however, fond of Scotch Curled kale when it's transformed into "Krispy Kale," a snack created by Kim Blanchard of Rock Spring Farm in Highlandville, Iowa. Here's how to make it: Stem one bunch fresh kale and chop into 2-inch pieces. Toss with olive oil and salt, and place on a jellyroll pan. Crisp in a 375-degree oven for about 10 minutes. We tried it here at MOTHER and it was delicious!)

In keeping with their identity as salad greens, the Napus types were faster growing and more robust than the Scotch Curled types, which grew more slowly and deliberately. For vigor and ability to produce a steady harvest, the Napus variety `White Russian' was tops, followed by another Napus, `Winter Red.'

The third variety to really shine in terms of productivity, though, was the Scotch Curled type Winterbor,' which even edged out `White Russian' and `Winter Red' in the harsh mountain climate at the Seeds of Change farm. Also showing respectable yields in this category was 'Lacinato,' which did significantly better than its Italian look-alike, 'Nero Di Toscana.' `Vates' also had a good showing for yield.

In the end, cold temperatures proved the great equalizer between the two types of kale. In Oregon, for example, a sudden, unusually frigid blast of cold, dry weather sent temperatures plummeting on three consecutive nights to 24, then 20 and 15 degrees — the coldest readings all winter. "That definitely hurt the Napus types here," says Morton, who watched as the 'Red Ursa' and then the `Winter Red' got pretty badly beaten up. His `White Russian' only sustained moderate damage; the Winterbor' and especially the `Vates' held their own.

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